Cashmere or Cloth,
4x4 Inches. Cotton Skirt Lining When Desired,
4x4 Inches. Mohair Skirt Braid,
4 1/2 Inches. Bias Velveteen,
4 1/2 Inches. (The color of the braid and velveteen should either match or be in harmony with the cloth.)
Cotton No. 50,
Silk No. A,
Buttonhole Twist D, or Linen Twist A.
Needle, No. 8.
To protect the edge of the skirt.
The bottom of a skirt may be finished in various ways. Binding with braid or velveteen is the general usage. If the former is used it should be a strong mohair braid and not the ordinary skirt braids which soon wear out; if the latter, care again is needed to procure a good quality, as much of the velveteen for sale is worthless for this purpose. .......
Braid should be shrunk before using it on a garment or dampness may cause it to do so later and thus draw the skirt out of shape. There are various methods of shrinking the braid; such as plunging it in lukewarm water for a few minutes and then shaking it out, putting it in boiling water and then drying it, or sponging it with water and afterward ironing it dry.
Skirt braids and veleteens are better sewed on by hand than by machine, as the dust is less apt to catch in the stitches and wear them out.
(1) When there is a lining in the skirt the following method is often used. Turn up the bottom of the skirt the required length and hem the lining down over it. The lining when hemmed should be 1/4 of an inch above the bottom of the skirt. Lay the braid flat on the wrong side of the skirt, letting it drop 1/8 of an inch below the bottom. Run it on with an occasional backstitch 1/4 of an inch from the bottom of the braid, being careful not to take the stitch through to the cloth on the right side. Hem the opposite side of the braid to the lining (some workers prefer to use the running-stitch here also, as they consider it wears better, being more protected than the slanting stitch over the edge of the braid). To join the ends of the braid lay one end 1 1/2 inches over the other end. Turn each raw edge in 1/2 inch so that one will lap in the other. Overhand the folds at the bottom and hem the upper braid on the lower. Or sew the two ends together 1/2 inch from the raw edges. Turn back each end and hem or over-cast it to the braid beneath that no raw edges will be exposed. Press carefully.
(2) Where there is no lining in the skirt or where there is a drop skirt, the bottom is turned up the required length and finished with a hem or facing, varying in depth from 1 1/2 to 4 inches. To protect the edge of this hem, a mohair braid may be placed at the bottom. Allow the edge of the braid to extend about 1-16 of an inch below the hem. The upper edge of the braid may be fastened to the hem by a running or hemming stitch. If greater strength is needed put a second row of stitches at the lower edge also, being careful not to take them through to the right side. Press carefully.
(3) Braid may also be sewed on so that it will have the effect of a fold at the bottom of the skirt, as in the velveteen binding. The skirt and the lining must be cut even and the braid laid on the right side of the skirt with its edge even with the other edges. The braid is sewed on by machine 1/4 of an inch from the bottom through the lining and the skirt. It is then turned back with all the raw edges underneath and hemmed to the lining or the skirt on the wrong side. The fold of the braid should extend 1/8 of an inch below the skirt to protect it. Press carefully.
Cut the skirt and lining, if there is one, even all the way around. Turn them about 1/2 an inch so the skirt will be the desired length, and hem the raw edges to the lining. Press carefully. Lay the velveteen on the bottom of the skirt with its right side against the wrong side of the skirt. Let 1/4 of an inch of the velveteen lie on the skirt and the rest extend below. Run it by hand to the skirt 1/8 of an inch from the bottom. Turn the velveteen back so that the fold will drop 1/8 of an inch below the finished edge of the skirt and baste it in place. Turn in the opposite edge of the velveteen 1/4 of an inch and hem it to the skirt or to the lining (it is sometimes herring-boned without turning in the edge). Join the ends of the velveteen by allowing 1/2 inch more than the circumference of the skirt and sew the two ends in a bias seam.
Take 4x4 inches of some wool material, use it single or line it with an appropriate cotton lining. The piece thus made is to be bound on each end of the length of the material. On one end place the mohair braid and bind according to one of the ways suggested under Rule for Sewing on Braid. The opposite end is to be bound with bias velveteen according to the Rule.