Materials For Practice

Striped or Figured

Cloth (cotton or wool).

4x4 Inches or any desired size.

Cotton, No. 80-100. Silk No. A (shade darker than cloth.)

Needle, No. 9-11.

21/2 x 21/2 Inches. (This is a little large but it allows for fraying.) The size of the repairing piece depends upon the hole.

Use

A durable, neat patch used principally for outer garments of various materials.

Fitness

The small overhand stitch shows little, yet makes a strong means of uniting the patch to the garment.

Rule

The General Rules for the size of the hole, dimensions of the patch, the matching of the pattern and the creasing of the garment and patch must all be followed. In this patch the edges are not turned in on the wrong side, but they are overcast or have the blanket-stitch over them. Larger folds than in the hemmed patch must therefore be allowed on both the garment and the patch-1/4 to1/2 of an inch according to the fraying of the material. The patch is sometimes inserted from the wrong side. It is easier, however, to insert it from the right side. The slight imperfection arising from the showing of the slanting part of the overhand stitch is offset by the greater difficulty of setting the patch in satisfactorily from the wrong side.

In calculating, the size of the patch, the hole, the worn part beyond, and the allowance for good seams on both garment and patch, should be considered. If no hole is worn in the garment, cut a small hole in the center of the worn part and use this piece to match the pattern. Crease the garment, cut the patch and crease it. (See General Rules.) Prepare the patch by turning good folds (toward the wrong side of the material) on all its four sides. Lay the patch on the right side of the garment with the folds turned inward, baste carefully and overhand the patch to the garment, being careful to catch with the stitches the square folds at the corners of the patch.

Turn to the wrong side, insert the scissors into the hole and cut the garment to within the same distance of the overhand stitches as the width of the folds turned on the patch. Cut diagonally in each corner toward the overhand stitches and press the raw edges of the garment beyond the patch. (Fig. 35.)

This will make the entire patch slip into the hole and therefore show little on the right side. Press carefully.

In placing the overhanded patch on wool material, warp ravelings of the cloth may be used for the sewing instead of split silk.

Practice

If material needing repairing cannot be provided, take a piece of striped or figured cotton or wool material. Crease it through the center along warp and woof. (See General Rules.) Indicate on it in pencil or by basting the shape of a hole or worn part. Cut a small hole in the center (if one is not already worn) large enough to insert the scissors. Consider the size of the place to be repaired; the size of the patch to cover such a hole would be (1) the dimensions of the hole just mentioned; (2) the folds on all four sides, i. e., 1 4 of an inch allowed on each side for the turning back of material after the patch is sewed on; (3) 1/4 of an inch on each side of the patch to allow for turns. Taken together these amounts equal the size and shape of the repairing piece. This is for plain material that does not fray, larger seams must be allowed for loosely woven material. Figured material needs special consideration in matching the pattern. Prepare the patch and finish the work according to the rule.

Suggestion

See under Patching on page 92.

Fig. 35.   Overhanded Patch. (Wrong Side.)

Fig. 35. - Overhanded Patch. (Wrong Side.)