Gingham or White Muslin, 4x4 Inches.
5 1/4 X l 1/4 Inches (lower facing). 3 1/4 x l 1/4 Inches (upper facing)
Cotton, No. 80-100.
Needle, No. 9-11.
On the vent at the wrist of a shirt sleeve.
Opening of shirt sleeves. The under facing makes a strong finish which will launder well and the upper facing makes the appearance attractive.
Take a piece of striped gingham or white muslin, 4x4 inches (if gingham is used care must be taken throughout to match the pattern).) Cut a 2 1/2-inch slit along the warp lengthwise of the material 2 1/2 inches from the right-hand side. (If this slit should be cut down the center of the piece, the placket when completed will not be well placed.) Lay the long strip of muslin to the wrong side of the model at the right-hand side of the vent, making the raw edges even. Make a narrow seam (running and backstitch-ing) from the top of the model to the end of the cut. Turn this facing over on the right side of the cloth leaving the folded edge on the wrong side extend the width of the seam beyond the sewing. Turn in the opposite edge of the facing 1/8 of an inch its entire length. Stitch it down on the right side and when the bottom of the cut is reached, stitch across the facing at right angles to the vent. This disposes of half of the long strip. Turn it back on itself, having both raw edges turned into narrow folds to correspond with the turns in the half of the facing just completed. Baste the unfinished side of the vent to the facing as it turns back, being careful that it lies fiat and that the raw edge of the vent is far enough over on the facing to be strong.
Take now the upper facing, turn the long edges so that the width will exactly correspond with the part of the lower facing which turns back. Lay it on the lower facing. Directly below the vent the outer facing should be turned into a point. (Fig. 24.) This point can be made exact by (1) turning the facing back at right angles where it reaches the end of the vent and making a crease, and (2) by turning the material below the crease on both sides diagonally into angles, the straight sides of which shall rest on the crease. Where the diagonals cross will be the true point. Cut the material 1/8 of an inch below the crossing of the diagonals. The upper facing should be basted carefully to the lower around the edges and the point should be adjusted and basted on the material below the vent. The entire upper facing should then be stitched around the sides and point. In large garments the work would be done by machine.
In large garments the length of this placket is about 4 inches, the width varies from 1 inch to 1 1/2 inches.
The upper and lower facings may be cut in one piece, but the fitting is more difficult than with the two pieces.
Fig. 24. - Folding of the Point in the Upper Facing.
Where gingham is used the upper facing must be cut according to the pattern; it must exactly match the main part of the cloth over which it extends.
A small sleeve may be made by each child and the placket put in that, or a small shirtwaist may be made at this time.
The front of a shirtwaist is frequently made with a box pleat 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches wide. This pleat is usually stitched on each edge. The buttonholes can be made in it or an extra lap may be made underneath for them. If the material is not wide enough to make the pleat, an extra piece may be added which will fold under the pleat and not show. The other side of the shirt-waist which goes under the box pleat may be turned into a 1-inch hem, or if too narrow for that, a supplementary piece may be added, turned back and stitched down either on the right or wrong side of the cloth as desired.