On aprons, garments and travelling cases.
Buttons with four holes may have the stitches form a cross on the face and two diagonals at the back, or may have two parallel stitches on the face and a cross at the back. The cross stitches should be in the direction of the warp and woof. Use double cotton and fasten it securely in the right side of the material directly under where the button will go. It is well to put a pin on top of a flat button or under one which is concave and to make the stitches over the pin so that the button will not be fastened down too tight. When sufficient stitches have been taken withdraw the pin and pass the cotton several times around the stitches beneath the button to form a stem or shank. This protects the stitches and makes room for the button-hole or loop. When the button is sewed down tight, it is apt to pull off, bringing a piece of the band with it. Fasten off directly under the button or on the wrong side in one of the diagonal stitches. The wrong side should be very neat.
Buttons with two holes have the stitches running the warp way of the material. Buttons with a shank should have the stitches over and over the shank in such a way that the rubbing of the buttonhole will be against the shank rather than against the stitches. Cloth buttons often are made with material on the wrong sides in place of a shank; these are sewed on in the same way, but looser than a shank button, so a stem can be formed by winding the thread around the stitches.
A four-holed button is to be placed in the middle of the buttonhole practice piece. (See Practice - Buttonholes.)
The sewing on of buttons may be taught to young children. Let them practice with four-holed buttons, shoe-buttons and cloth buttons. With older classes, practice on spacing and cutting buttonholes may be accomplished by sewing on buttons to correspond. In light-weight materials a staytape will often be needed between the lining and the cloth to hold securely the buttons.