Have you ever thought how much your clothing costs father and mother every year? Marjorie Allen and Barbara Oakes tried to figure the cost one day. Girls must begin to learn how to spend wisely, for they will very soon have the responsibility of being spenders. If you can make some of your clothing, you will help to reduce the cost. Would you like to learn to make a budget as well as a simple dress skirt to wear over the bloomers? Suppose we study to-day about the clothing budget.

Have you ever tried to calculate how much is spent each year for your clothing? If not, suppose you try. Girls who know how to make some articles of clothing can have more for the same amount of money. Suppose you send for the material for your dress skirts. It is wise to learn to make a very simple skirt first. Choose a simple pattern. Your teacher will help you. What material will you use? Perhaps you would like a middy blouse later to wear with the skirt. Can you name some suitable cotton materials to use for this purpose? Yes, Indian head, galatea, duck. You have studied about all of these and should have them in your sample books. Such a dress will be suitable for school wear. Talk with your teacher and calculate how much cloth you must buy for your skirt and middy. While you are waiting for the cloth you have ordered, let us study how Marjorie's Cousin Ann, who works at Paterson, manages to plan each year for her clothing.

She has such good plans. Do you know that such a plan is called a budget ?

Would you like to learn to make your clothing budget? Ann earns \$10 per week and her room and board cost her \$6 per week, so she has \$4 for other expenses. She puts aside \$1.50 each week for clothing, and so has \$6 per month or about \$75 per year. She lives near her work so does not have daily carfare, and she goes home at the noon hour for a little rest and for lunch. The rest of her money she divides in this way : Each week she tries to save 75 cents or #3 per month. The rest she uses for church and club expenses, for gifts, newspapers, or occasionally she buys a new necktie or an extra waist; but usually the \$75 supply all her clothing needs. This is how she manages. She plans for more than one year, usually trying to keep three years in mind. Ann also goes to the Girls' Club and has learned to make her waists and some simple dresses.

The following is what she bought the first year. Remember she had some clothes to begin with before she started to keep her clothing budget. Your budget will of course be different from this, but this will show how Ann manages with #75. Some things which she needs you may have no use for in your section of the country. Try to plan what you would substitute. This will at least be a working basis for you, and will give you some suggestions for making yours. Marjorie Allen and Barbara Oakes have made their clothing budgets. They have \$60 per year for clothing. What do you think they omitted from this list? The things marked * are made at home. Ann's mother helps her; but Ann learned to make clothes at her Sewing Club.

Fig. 127. - Cousin Ann's division of her money. How much was for clothing ?

 First Year 2 union suits (winter) @ \$2.00..................... \$4.00 3 union suits (summer) @ .50...................... 1.50 1 flannelette nightdress @ 1.00...................... 1.00 1 flannelette nightdress left over 2 night dresses @.80....................................... 1.60 *3 corset covers @ .50............................... 1.50 2 pairs of corsets @ 2.00............................. 4.00 6 pairs of stockings @ .25........................... 1.50 2 pairs of garters @.25................................................... .50 shoes: 1 high lace @ 3.002 pairs low shoes @ 2.50...................... 8.00 1 pair rubbers...................................... .75 1 black sateen petticoat............................. 1.00 1 long white petticoat............................... 1.25 2 short white petticoats @ .75........................ 1.50 retrimming last year's best winter hat................. 1.25 summer hat (new).......................................................... 4.00 1 straw hat, common wear........................... 75 1 umbrella......................................... 1.00 *1 wool dress skirt.......................................... 4.00
 *3 shirt waists: 2 tailored @ 1.00*1 fancy @ 1.50..................... \$ 3.50 1 winter coat..................................... 12.00 1 spring coat (left from last year) 1 pair kid gloves................................. 1.50 1 pair wool gloves................................ .50 1 wool dress (winter, bought close of season)......... 12.00 1 sweater................................................. 3.00 *1 summer dress.................................. 3.00 *1 white duck dress skirt........................... 1.00 1 party dress (left over from last year) Gloves, handkerchiefs, neckties, collars received for Christmas. Total......... \$75.60

Notice that in the second year some articles are left over from the year before. This is because Ann has foresight. She is a good manager, and takes care of her clothes too, and plans ahead. Do you ?

 Second Year 2 union suits (left from last year, winter) 2 union suits (left from last year, summer) 1 new union suit summer....................... \$ .50 2 flannelette nightgowns (left over) 2 summer nightdresses (left over) • 1 new summer nightdress................................. .75 *3 corset covers @.50....................... 1.50 2 pairs of corsets @2.00...................... 4.00 6 pairs of stockings @.25........................ 1.50 2 pairs of garters @.25.................................... .50 shoes: I high laced @ 3.001 pair low shoes @ 2.501 pair low left over, half soled @ .75 7.00
 1 pair rubbers........................... \$ .75 1 black sateen petticoat.............................. 1.00 I long white petticoat (left over) 2 short white petticoats (left over) 1 new short white petticoat.......................... .75 1 winter hat..................................................... 5.00 1 winter hat (left over) common wear I summer hat (retrimmed).......................... 1.50 1 new summer hat (second).............................................. 2.00 1 umbrella (left over) *1 wool skirt (refreshened)........................... 1.00 *2 shirt waists (plain) @ 1.oo......................... 2.00 *1 extra white waist @ 1.50........................... 1.50 2 shirt waists (left over) 1 winter coat (left over) 1 spring coat (new).................................... 12.00 1 pair kid gloves............................................... 1.00 1 pair wool gloves (left over) 1 wool dress (left over) 1 sweater (left over) *1 summer dress (left over, remodeled)............................... 1.00 1 white duck skirt (left over) *1 new white duck skirt.............................. 1.00 *1 party dress.................................................... .. 8.00 1 coat suit, bought end of winter season............... 14.00 2 gingham aprons.................................. 1.00 1 gingham house dress (ready-made).................. 1.50 1 summer dress................................................ 4.00 Total.......... \$74.75

Try to find below, in the list for third year, the articles left over. Also new articles which will be of service the fourth year. Do you not think it is wise to plan in this way? Marjorie and Barbara have enjoyed making their budgets.

 Third Year 2 union suits, winter @ 2.00......................... . .\$ 4.00 2 union suits, summer @.50........................................ 1.00 1 union suit, summer (left over) 2 flannelette nightgowns @ 1.00...................... 2.00 1 new summer nightgown @ .75...................... .75 1 summer nightgown (left over) *3 corset covers @.50..................................................... 1.50 2 pairs corsets @ 2.00............................... 4.00 6 pairs of stockings @ .25........................... 1.50 2 pairs garters @ .25................................ .50 shoes: 1 pair high laced @ 3.001 pair high laced repaired, left over, @ .751 pair low shoes (new) @ 2.501 pair party slippers (new) @ 2.00............. .. 8.25 1 pair rubbers...................................... .75 1 black sateen petticoat............................. 1.00 1 long white petticoat............................... 1.25 1 new short white petticoat.......................... .75 1 short white petticoat (left over) retrimming last year's winter hat..................... 1.25 1 winter hat (common wear)........................................ 1.50 1 summer hat (new)................................ 5.00 1 summer hat (remodeled, common wear)............. 1.00 1 umbrella............................................................ 1.00 *1 wool skirt.................................................................. *2 shirt waists (plain) @1.00.............................................. *1 extra white waist @1.00................................................... 2 shirt waists (left over) 1 winter coat (left over 2 years) 1 spring coat (left over one year) 1 pair kid gloves.............................. 1.50 1 pair wool gloves......................................... .50
 *1 wool dress (remodeled after 2 winters' wear)......... ..\$ 3.00 2 white duck skirts (left over) 1 party dress left over (refreshened)......................................... 2.50 1 coat suit (left over) 2 gingham aprons (left over) 1 gingham house dress (new)......................... 1.50 1 gingham house dress (left over) 1 summer dress remodeled.......................... 1.00 1 new summer dress................................ 4.00 1 raincoat......................................... 5.00 1 wool dress (bought towards close of season).......... 10.00 1 pair winter arctics................................ 2.00 Total......... \$75.00

### Exercises And Problems

Plan a clothing budget with mother's help, and see how yours will differ from the above. Perhaps mother spends less for your clothes or more. Mrs. Allen says that Marjorie is learning to purchase so wisely that next year she may buy all of her own clothes. Of course, Mrs. Allen will always be willing to help when Marjorie needs her.