This is suited for linen material, where the warp and weft are even in thickness and strong enough to be easily withdrawn without breaking the threads. It is especially used as an adornment for hems.

Hem Stitching 157

Leave the required width of material for the hem and its turnings and draw out a sufficient number of threads to gather up without puckering, more or less according to the thickness of material, say from five to ten threads ; then tack the folds of the hem into place, and with a thread of suitable thickness and colour take a stitch out of the right-hand end of the hem beneath four or five of the drawn threads towards the left (Diag. 144A). Take the needle back to where it was inserted under the drawn threads and set it under them again diagonally, so that the point comes out at the edge of the hem, as in 144B, thus gathering the drawn threads into little sheaf-like bundles by a loop. The other edge of the drawn threads may be stitched in the same fashion, the stitches either corresponding with the row along the hem, or by alternating with them so as to divide the sheaves of drawn threads and forming thus a zigzag arrangement.

Hem Stitching 158