Age : 12-14 Years
The principles underlying the overall, the infant's first flannel jacket, and now the child's coat, tend to give that ability which results in a wider application.
In Diag. 76, with the wider application of Dressing Jacket, we have the gusset introduced as well as crossway bands sewn in varied ways.
(Incidentally, if a mistake should happen, as it may, the girl has shown in experimental work how from the mistake may issue something new and equally good.)
Gussets are double shaped, single square, and single triangular.
The double-shaped gusset is the most enduring of all, and is used very exclusively for boys' and men's shirts.
The single square is used for widening the under part of a short chemise sleeve ; and doubled is used for the necks of boys' shirts. The single triangular is used for babies' clothes, and articles of general household needs, as bags.
Material 3 inches x 3 inches is taken, halved in two triangles: ready to make a pair of gussets.
Turn down a fold 1/8 inch round the triangle on the wrong side (Diag. 77a). Turn down the apex to the middle of the base and crease the fold (Diag. 77A).
Turn up the ends of the base to meet the fold, and cut off this turned-up part 1/8 inch from the outer fold (Diag. 77B).
Place the apex of the gusset at the end of the seaming; over-seam the two sides of the gusset to the garment, as far as the middle fold (Diag. 77c); turn over the lower half of the triangle to the inside, hem neatly all round and stitch across the edge of the middle fold, which should be stretched slightly to make it lie flat (Diag. 77D).
The square gusset used for widening and strengthening the under arm of garments is set in by a stitched counter-fold.
Diag. 76 illustrates both methods.