Age: 12-14 Years
Hitherto strips cut selvedge-wise for strength and easy manipulation have been practised, but as the constructive and inventive power expands the straight line is superseded by curves for a time, and experimental work is extremely interesting between 12 and 14 as a fruitful period in curves.
One difficulty in technique to the brooding, easily fatigued girl, is how to strengthen this curve in the plastic material, which she cuts out, and is overcome by the introduction of a cross strip.
The bias or cross-cut quality of stretchiness and strength impresses them at the right moment, and consequently a vigour is gained which cannot be lost.
The curves of armholes, neckbands, foot of skirts, coats, etc., may all be finished in a strong, beautiful manner, enhanced with stitchery, tacked or hemmed in groups (Diag. 78).
Diag. 79 shows how strips may be cut cross fashion.
Placing the sharp angle of the strip to the blunt angle, the strips are joined by a strong back stitch ; then flattened out and stretched to fit the curve (Diag. 80).
The cross strip is placed next the worker, tacked and machined, then turned over, either to the right or wrong side, according to the purposeof the garment, Diag. 81. and finished according to the taste of the worker by one or more of the many stitches now at her disposal (Diag. 81).
Back-stitching and button-hole stitching expand into a very strong and very beautiful row or rows of stitchery.
Hold work as for hemming. Work from right to left (beginning with a strong back stitch). From the place where the thread comes out, allow the thread to lie in a perfectly straight line to the left for about \ inch and keep firmly down with the thumb. Slip the needle underneath this thread from above (Diag. 82).
Turn the needle in circular fashion from right to left, until it goes quite round to the place where the thread came out (Diag. 82A). Insert through the material at this point and come out as in stitching; spaced according as the purpose of the article demands - from the area of the knot, say to an area of 1/4 inch (Diag. 82b).
Diag. 82. Diag. 82A. Diag. 82B.
For a thick knot it is better to work with two single threads and a rather larger-eyed needle, than with a thread doubled, because the latter is apt to knot and twist and generally trouble the worker.
Finish off as in stitching.
It is a mistaken custom to twist the thread several times round the knot in order to make a larger size, as the twisting tends to make loose and untidy knots and is a far less speedy and regular method.