Age: 9-10 Years

Lesson V Pleating 16

One and one-half to two yards of 30-inch wide, unbleached calico, 3d. to 6d. per yard; one-third yard of coloured calico, 30 inches wide, 6d. per yard. Needles, No. 5 " Scientific" sharps. No. 25 coloured cotton embroidery thread. Cost 9d. to is. id.

The overall (Diag. 15) is chosen as a type to illustrate Pleating at this stage for two reasons : 1. The child's free experimental work shows a series of effort and groping which shapes itself in testing and using the tacking stitch by gathering the material together.

2. The teacher's opportunity to direct this creative quality by the production of the flattened " gather " or Pleating in the construction of the overall.

Method

Finish the bottom hem of each width, either by a false hem of contrasting colour, or a fold of itself turned to the outside and tacked according to the child's own taste.

Note in Diag. 15 ho*w the construction forms the decoration where weight and strength are required, and repeated rows of tacking or top-sewing and hemming effect this in good simple design.

The middle of the front and back width should be marked and the pleats arranged towards the arm : three or four on either side to fit the particular girl.

Paper Notched For Folding Pleats

Method 17

Diag. 16.

Method 18

Diag. 17.

Method 19

Diag. 18.

Pleats may be 1 inch, 1/2 inch, 1/2 inch, or J inch in size - the width between being always less with the larger pleat and about equal with the 1/2-inch size. All pleats and spacings, however, are matters of personal choice : but one pleat should not cover the fold of another pleat, as this would not only be ugly, but impossible to laundry properly.

Diags. 16 and 17 show the notched cardboard or stiff paper which serves as a guide for the folding of the pleats ; the tacked pleating and the hemming in to the coloured band of the overall (both sides are hemmed) (Diag. 18).

Diag. 19.

Diag. 20.

Method 20Method 21

Diag. 21.

Diags. 19 and 20 show the arrangement for box pleating.

The side seams may be top-sewed for a short distance along each side, leaving room for the arms and legs to move freely.

The shoulder straps of coloured calico may be tacked strongly and beautifully, and connected by a repetition of the bottom hem design.

Diagram 21 illustrates one alternative exercise - Cooking Apron - constructed on the same principle, but with graduated pleating in the bib and strings : the thread in both exercises must be of a contrasting colour. (If the material be extra wide, folds may be tacked down along each side : if rather narrow, the selvedge may be retained and top-sewed.)