Age : 12-14 Years

Just as the Sleeve Type never alters in principle, however numerous the varieties, so with the next type.

The Skirt may be a modified form known as an under petticoat, made up in woollen material; it may be expanded and called a top petticoat, made up from one of the many varieties of cotton or silk manufactures.

It may be cut in one or in many pieces, but the girl who has been taught to make the simple Type, with Knowledge of (1) Proportion and (2) Motion; that sense of beautiful form (lines, curves, mass, etc.) which depends on the muscular sensibility of the eye, is able not only to imitate and emulate the Type, but dreams and devises with interesting expansions.

The interest roused by the many varieties of manufactured material, flannel, nun's veiling, lustre, calico, nainsook, print, silk, moirette, etc., should be made the most of in relation to the elementary types. For example 1. The age of the wearer.

2. Season of the year in which the garment is to be worn.

3. The width of woollens, cottons, silks and mixtures, such as Union.

4. Right and wrong sides (as the nap or pattern may very decidedly show) lead us to consider reversible or non-reversible stuffs in relation to economy.

This, of course, is a borrowed interest; it becomes interesting through its association with the constructions in which an interest already exists.

And when we realize that the idea springs from the doing; that there is no limit to the associative expansions of the idea either under the wing of joy or with the scent of danger not far away, we see how careful of the Type we must be, for in endless ways the expansion may result.

Method

1 3/4 yards to 2 1/2 yards, 36 inches wide, give a skirt of light weight. According to one's height skirts vary from 1 3/4 yards to 3 yards. (If the foot be finished with flounce or frill 1 to 2 yards more will be required.)

According to age, the length is taken from waist to calf, ankle, or toes.

(Skirts to the knee are cut straight, gathered or pleated into a straight band to fit round the waist (Diag. 56).)

The width depends on the motion of the body: in relation to its proportion, the longer the skirt the wider it will be round the foot.

The difference between what a skirt demands when the person is sitting and when the person is walking must be considered, since room to step out demands a certain width, and this, of course, is in proportion to length of limb; so that the girl not only measures, but must be on the alert for the why and wherefore - the double intellectual effort.

Cut off two widths the required length.

Double both widths selvedge wise.

Allow twice as much to the width at the foot {room for stepping out) as what is allowed at the waist (Diag. 84).

Note the gradual slope from the back to the front. Place the selvedge to the slanting edge and cut away the extra flap at the foot, following the circular shape of the garment.

Method 102Method 103

Diag. 84.

Diag. 84A.

The skirt should be cut out frequently in ordinary newspaper and memorized by the girl as the Type.

The straight edges must be placed to the slanting (bias) edges to prevent puckering and stretchiness, and should be machined as in previous lesson (French Seam), or counter-folded and machined first on one side and then on the other, or machined in two parallel rows on the right side (Diags. 60, 61, 62).