Age : 12-14 Years
There are many ways of arranging openings in garments and general household articles, and the worker should choose her method according to the use of the article. For uniformity in details of practice is not desirable, if it were attainable.
To say that any opening, or strip of material, be it front, back, side, or wrist, must be 3 inches, 13 inches, 23 inches, or the length of the garment, is on a par with saying that all are automatons, or do the same kind of work, are of one build, know no sickness; in other words, to work with our needle as if it bore no relation to the laws of health and comfort.
And since the days when men carried weapons of defence and found it easier to have the shirt opening fastening from left to right - women, with no such need, followed in this instance the more direct method, from which the rule stands even now, hence
Men's garments fasten left over right.
Women's garments fasten right over left.
Extra width of material may be allowed for all kinds of openings, finished like the slip bodice by simple folds hemmed, (1) An all-open front thus finished is approved of in many hospitals - nurses find the garments much easier to slip on and off, and the garment is saved from being unduly stretched or racked. (2) Without extra width of material, added strips may be placed on right and left sides respectively, singly as "false hems "hemmed or machined (Diags. 101, 101a), or double as u front, back, or side pleat" ; fitting the purpose of the garment, as far as details of length and width apply.
Diag. 102. Diag. 103. Diag. 103A.
For all, the same principle obtains.
Cut down the length decided on, snip at right angles
1/4 inch to 3/4 inch on either side, which allows the extra material at the foot of the opening to be formed into a pleat at the end of the band (Diag. 101b).
On the one side turn in a hem to the wrong side, or machine down a false hem (Diag. 101) (wide enough to hold a button comfortably). On the other side, place the strip (cut selvedge wise) on the wrong side of the garment.
At each end of this strip, leave extra material to allow (a) for the fitting of the neck curve; (b) for the particular finish at the other end - square, pointed, or rounded.
Machine or back stitch the two long edges 1/8 inch from the edge.
Flatten out and turn the strip over to the right side. Turn in the bottom edge of the band according to choice, and arrange the pleat by-bringing the half of the band over the hem, so that the hem lies exactly under the middle of the band (Diag. 101a). Cover the ends of the hems with a small strip, hemmed neatly (Diag. 101c).
Stitch (by machining, chain stitching, or feathering) the band to the garment all round (Diags. 101, 101a).
Note that the extra material at the foot of the band may be box-pleated, as the custom is with a boy's or man's shirt (Diag. 102).
Diags. 103, 103A, 104, 105, illustrate various openings for sleeves, skirts, drawers.