Age : 10-11 Years

One yard 36-inch wide flannel at IS. 6d. will give 18 kettle-holders, 6 inches x 6 inches (double). Tape, braid, galloon, ribbon or strip of raw-edged contrasting material. Needles, No. 5 " Scientific" sharps. Thread, No. 30 coloured cotton embroidery. Cost, 2d. to 3d.

The defence of unprotected edges associates this lesson with the purpose of button-hole stitchery and with the technique of an earlier stage, so that the pupil understands values by a natural order of acquisition.

Curiosity and wonder are stimulated, and if those be not fed when most acute, the girl goes without an adequate conception all her days.

Method

The binding, be it self-edged as in the case of tapes, braids, ribbon, or raw-edged, as in the case of a strip of contrasting material, may be placed equally on both sides, but it is stronger to have the binding sewn on different rows of threads. One-third of the width is hemmed down on the right side (Diag. 42) or stitched (Diag. 42A); on the other.side

Method 44

Diag. 42.

Diag. 42A.

the remaining two-thirds are "run" (tacked finely) (Diag. 42) or hemmed (Diag. 42A). If the selvedge be sewn first, the material has a better chance of keeping free from puckers. Note that the material at the corners is not turned over, all in a fold one way, but balanced so that weight at the corners of the material is equalised and clumsiness avoided.

Half the fold is turned one way and the other half is turned the reverse way, on the right and wrong sides respectively. And in each case the fold is neatly hemmed (Diag. 42B).

Woollen stuffs, besides shrinking more than linen and cotton binding, when washed, are all apt to work in full, which makes it advisable to hold the binding pretty tight; or ease the article being bound, to prevent the binding being full. For very thick woollen and patterned fabrics the binding is often placed all on one side, as follows.

Method 45

Diag. 42B.

Method 46

Diag. 43.

The edge of the material is turned down from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch ; the binding is laid over this, keeping about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch from the edge. Run along the outer edge (the running must not be taken through to the right side), and then run or hem down the inner edge (Diag.

Single darning for twilled and irregularly woven surfaces may be practised as an added decoration and thickener to the kettle-holder (Diag. 44).

Tapes

Connected with Lesson VII (Sewing On Of Tapes) (Designs Based On The Circle) (Waistbands And Foot Finishings), the expansion in making various kinds of loops is much enjoyed.

Method

The two squares in Diags. 45 a and 45 b should have the two inner edges top-sewed (over-seamed) first (Diag. 45), then seamed to the edges on the right side and hemmed round the three inner sides.

Diag. 46 shows tapes sewn as for pillow-cases, when they should be placed 1/4 inch to I inch from the edge. They are hemmed along the two vertical edges on the inner side and stitched along the two horizontal edges on the outer side.

Method 47

Diag. 44.

And as tapes, braids, ribbons, must be placed according to the use of the article, it is well to observe that an oblong shape is needed when the tape or braid is narrow.

Method 48

Diag. 45.

Diag. 46.

Proportion in binding and in loops is a nicety not to be overlooked. Diag. 44 shows the loop in proportion to the binding.

cutting out Neck, Wrist, Waist, Armhole, Bust (in Paper)

Age 10-11 Years

The child begins to appreciate the value of a smoothly cut edge, as against a jagged, uneven edge - though even with the normal child at this age reversions occur.

The bust measurement is next taken - which is nearly the same in size as the waist up to 14 years of age, and in many cases is rather less.

And while experimental work applied to any oddment of fabric, old or new, has been developing on individual lines, the pupils' correction of their own errors - errors inevitable through lack of experience - is bringing them practically to the discovery for themselves of our next step - the slip-bodice type, where the ingathering of the various movements is combined.