Age : 11-12 Years

One yard of white calico. Needles, No. 6 betweens. Thread, No. 40.

The free, bold cutting out during the preceding years, 6-11, has given the girl freedom from rigidity, a necessity in cutting out fearlessly when combined movements occur.

This first type combines the previous knowledge in cutting out, and from the basal equipment in stitchery the girl begins to enjoy the purpose, the variety and choice which the slip-bodice affords.

Towards the human body the girl's observation and effort have been constantly swinging. Experimental work is exceedingly interesting at this period, and our type follows Nature. The child has led us from the ornamental neck beads to the blanket with the hole for the head.

Gradually in experimental work, and always with plenty of room for the head opening, comes a fitment for the upper part of the body - hence the Slip-bodice, which in turn expands into chemise, overall, pinafore, pinafore dresses.

Lesson XVII Slip Bodice Type And Counter Hem 60

Diag. 57.

Method

Tie a tape firmly round the waist. Pin cheap, unbleached calico or scrim on the figure.

The gradual observation from the infant stage shows at a glance that the shoulder is higher than the base of the neck in front.

Allow for this by placing the scrim higher than the base of the neck till the material meets the shoulder easily.

Pin the material on the shoulder and at the base of the neck in front. Cut away the flap of material which falls over. It measures about 4 1/2 inches. This is a valuable little measurement, maintaining the same proportion in other parts of all normal bodies, and should be noted.

The slope from the neck curve to the shoulder is 4 1/2 inches. The width beneath the arm from the bust is 4 1/2 inches.

And because of this harmonious arrangement in the anatomy of the figure, we can divide the pattern into three parts.

As the girl grows older she discovers what is best for her own comfort, and her own ingenuity plans the modifications or expansions of the type.

Thus " fashions " are intelligently followed, later on.

First Process (Diag. 58).

1. Tie tape round the waist firmly.

2. Turn wrap back.

3. Pin at base of neck and at waist line.

4. Cut off flap at neck.

5. Pin shoulder slope (at neck and arm) and cut.

6. Take in dart 2 inches to 3 inches wide at waist line, tapering off to bust line.

7. Make small notch for the arm curve at the bust line and cut round the arm to meet shoulder line.

Method 61

Diag. 58.

8. Cut in beneath the arm to meet the line at back of shoulder.

9. Slope or curve slightly from this point to waist line.

For practice it is advisable to place this moulded pattern on ordinary newspaper and cut out until the girl can cut a nice clean pattern.

Then pin down on the white calico, doubled for right and left sides, as in Diag. 58.

Second Process (Diag. 59)

The cheap, unbleached calico or scrim should be placed against the halfback, pinned exactly as the fronts, and cut out.

Method 62

Diag. 59.

Method 63

Diag. 60.

In this type no basque is allowed, as complications spoil the simple idea of chest moulding and measuring.

If the material should go beyond the waist, merely hem the edges.

The following lessons describe one way of sewing the slip-bodice (Diags. 60, 61, 62).

Method 64

Diag. 61.

Method 65

Diag. 62.

Counter-Hem

Method

Join the shoulders of the slip-bodice by a counter-hem, as these being on the cross way of the material are more apt to stretch and get out of place than the ordinary selvedge seams (Diag. 60).

Lay a fold 1/2 inch deep on either back shoulder and on the two front shoulders.

Dovetail both together and allow the girl to stitch or hem the seam.

If hemmed, note that the shoulder hems face each other; if stitched, have the two parallel rows sewn on the right side (Diag. 61); or, another method still is to stitch the seam on the outside and hem on the inside (Diag. 62).

Allow the child to exercise her judgment here and choose one method, giving her reason.

Examples of " dove-tailed" wood from the woodwork room might be shown at this point, and in fact, during the next period, 12-14 years, comparisons in all manual work are to be strongly commended.

The child should make acquaintance with the outside world of material generally, even if it can only make bosom friends with one craft in particular.