Age : 12-14 Years
This is the slack period before the spurt of adolescence.
Greater stability, deliberate movement, above all the brooding quality characterizes the girl, and must not be interfered with, unless to the arrest of developing organism.
Therefore, finicking, petty, troubling work should be avoided. A broad, general view of things should be adopted. In the realm of handiwork, minute measurements should give place to general proportions and interesting comparisons.
To the slip-bodice type, we hang on the sleeve type, giving in this manner the nucleus of blouse, jacket, or nightdress.
A general talk on sleeves, short, elbow, three-quarter, full length, as they are used for chemise or nightdress, blouse or coat, should precede the Type, from which all these may be expanded or modified.
1st Movement. The girl places one end of the tape line on the shoulder, bends the arm (to allow for the expansion of the arm at the elbow), and brings the tape a little way beyond the wrist (Diag. 72). Say this measurement is 24 inches ; draw the length on the blackboard.
2nd Movement. Take the width by encircling the shoulder with the tape (Diag. 72B), allowing from 2 inches to 3 inches for thickness of clothing.
This measures probably 28 inches. Draw the width on the blackboard. One sleeve thus measures 24 inches x 28 inches.
Double this up in ordinary newspaper or draw on blackboard to represent the upper and under sleeve.
In proportion to the length, the elbow occurs about the middle - this halves the sleeve, and when the arm is swung freely about one-quarter of the length is allowed for the motion at the shoulder. As the child has been led gradually from the earliest to consider one part of the body in relation to another part - the relative proportion of the wrist to the armhole is remembered as being half the width, and again one-quarter extra is allowed for the motion of the wrist and the width of the shut hand (if made without side openings).
Draw a slightly curved line on the three-quarter length to meet the three-quarter width at the wrist (Diag. 73). Cut by this line in paper.
Draw attention to the contour of the shoulder, and draw the convex curve to indicate the shoulder top (Diag. 73). By this line cut both upper and under sleeve.
Next draw and cut away the under arm (Diag. 73).
The type is now ready for application. Modifications and expansions occur later.
Diag. 73. Convexcurve Over Shoulder
Note, in cutting out a pair of sleeves according to the Type, to have the right sides facing each other - wide enough material to be folded by the warp ; narrow material to be folded by the weft.