Frontispiece. Quilted Linen Coverlet, embroidered with Coloured Silks. English, late seventeenth century [532 - 1S97, V. & A. M.*]. Reproduced from a water-colour drawing prepared by Dorothy Lane.

Line Cut. Fragment of Tapestry and Needlework. Christian Coptic, fourth to sixth centuries. page 4

Plate NO.

1. Symbolical Signs (Crosses) . . . page 41

2. Sacred Monograms and Symbolical Signs ,, 47

3. Bedspread, Modern, in the Style of English Seventeenth-century Crewel Work. Embroidered at the Royal School of Art Needlework page 56

4. Cotton Hanging. English, seventeenth century.

Embroidered in coloured wools with leaf forms, small flowers, and birds . . page 60

5. Detail of Cotton Hanging. English, seventeenth century. Embroidered in coloured wools page 63

6. Leaf in Coloured Wools, from a Linen Hanging.

English, seventeenth century [1392. V. & A. M.] page 66

7. No. I. Orphrey. Spanish, about 1550 [248 - 1880,

V. & A. M.].....page 69

No. II. Orphrey. Spanish, about 1530 [246 - 1880,

V. & A. M.].....page 69

No. III. Orphrey. Spanish, sixteenth century

[261 - 1880, V. & A. M.] . . . page 69

* Victoria and Albert Museum XV

8. Altar-frontal, Green Silk, ornamented with an

Applique Pattern. Spanish, sixteenth century. The property of Sir W. Drake . . page 72

9. Border of Blue Satin. Spanish, sixteenth century

[1162 - 1877, V. & A. M.] . . . page 75

10. Wall or Pilaster Hanging, Applique. Italian, sixteenth century [841 - 1847, V. & A. M.] page 78

11. Hanging of Silk and Velvet Patchwork, Applique.

Spanish, sixteenth century [266 - 1880, V. & A. M.]......page 81

12. Portion of a Hanging, Patchwork Applique.

English, fourteenth century [V. & A. M.] page 83

13. Patchwork Inlay Panel. Persian, eighteenth century. [858 - 1892, V. & A. M.] . page 87

14. Part of a Hanging of Linen embroidered with

Coloured Silks. Spanish, seventeenth century [342 - 1885, V. & A. M.] . . . page 90

15. Altar-frontal, White Satin, embroidered in Coloured

Silks and Gold Threads. Spanish, sixteenth century ...... page 93

16. Coronation Robe of His Majesty King Edward VII.

page 96

17. Letter-bag, Gold Embroidery, with Groups of

Pearls for the Flowers . . . page 100

18. Figure from an Orphrey, embroidered in Coloured

Silks and Gold Threads. German, middle of the fifteenth century [8670 - 1863, V. & A. M.] page 103

19. Portion of an Orphrey from the Premonstratensian

Abbey of Tronchiennes, near Ghent. Early-sixteenth century .... page 106

20. Portion of a Carpet. Persian, early eighteenth century. [859 - 1876, V. & A. M.] . page 109

21. The Syon Cope. English, date about 1250 [83 1864, V. & A. M.] .... page 113

22. Detail from the Syon Cope. English, date about

1250 [83 - 1864, V. & A. M.] . . page 116

23. Screen Panel, "Spring." Designed by Walter Crane, and worked at the Royal School of Art Needlework ...... page 119

24. Screen Panels, Four Figures representing the

Senses: "Seeing," "Smelling," " Hearing," and " Tasting." Designed by Walter Crane, and worked at the Royal School of Art Needlework page 122

25. Altar-frontal. Designed by Selwyn Image ,, 125

26. Portion of a Frieze, " The Seven Ages of Man."

Designed by Walter Crane, and worked at the Royal School of Art Needlework . page 127

27. Linen Pillow-case. English, sixteenth century.

The property of the Right Hon. the Viscount Falkland ..... page 130

28. Embroidery from a Linen Jacket. English, sixteenth century ..... page 133

29. Corner of a Linen Coverlet, embroidered with

Coloured Threads. Swiss, dated 1580 [851 - 1884, V. & A. M.] . . . . page 136

30. Embroidered Pillow-case. From the neighbourhood of Trieste. The property of Mrs. Pesel page 139

31. Borders for Edgings of Costumes. ,, 143

32. Cross-stitch Border, embroidered on Linen in Red

Silk. Italian, sixteenth century [863 - 1897,

V. & A. M.].....page 145

33. Corner of a Linen Coverlet. Portuguese, second half sixteenth century [326 - 1898, V. & A. M.] page 148

34. Border of a Petticoat. Turco-Greek (?), eighteenth century [2048 - 1876] . . . page 151

35. Border of a Petticoat. Turco-Greek (?), eighteenth century [2084 - 1876] . . . page 154

36. Carpet (Prayer). Persian, eighteenth century

[950 - 1889, V. & A. M.] . . . page 157

37. Border of Cut Linen, embroidered in Coloured

Silks and Silver Threads. Italian, late sixteenth century [225 - 1890, V. & A. M.] . page 160

38. Detail of Cut Linen, embroidered with Coloured

Silks and Silver-gilt and Silver Threads. Italian, late sixteenth century [100 - 1891, V. & A. M.] page 163

39. Door-hanging. Saracenic, seventeenth century

[53 - 1898, V & A. M.] . . . page 166

40. Back of a Chasuble. Italian, seventeenth century

[58 - 1891, V. & A. M.] . . . page 169

41. Embroidered Panel, " Pomona." Designed by the late Sir E. Burne-Jones and William Morris, and worked at the Royal School of Art Needlework ..... page 172

42. Corner of a Chalice Veil, Cream-coloured Silk, embroidered with Silk, Gold and Silver Threads. Italian, seventeenth century [573 - 1894, V. &

A. M.]......page 175

Border of Brown Square-meshed Net, embroidered with Coloured Silks. Italian, seventeenth century [686 - 1891, V. & A. M.] . page 175

43. Embroidery on Brown Silk Net. Italian, late sixteenth century [631 - 1893, V. & A. M.] page 178

44. Portion of a Curtain, Black, Square-meshed, embroidered with Coloured Silks. Italian, . late sixteenth century. [5064-1859, V. & A. M.] page 181

45. Border for a Chair Back, Lacis Work on a Netted

Foundation, by M. Ella Carr . . page 184

46. Enlarged Detail of Lacis Work on a Netted Foundation ...... page 187

47. Example of Lacis Work on a Mesh of Linen ,, 190

48. Child's Linen Cap, " Reticella." Italian, seventeenth century [7522 - 1861, V. & A. M.] page 193

49. Detail from a Muslin Collar in Drawn Work and

White Embroidery. French, early nineteenth century [547 - 1903, V. & A. M.] . page 196

50. Leaf and Flower Forms from Embroidered Apron.

English, early eighteenth century [701 - 1902, V. & A. M.].....page 199

51. Flower from English Eighteenth Century ,, 2or

52. Example of Bargello Work (sometimes called

" Florentine "). Italian, seventeenth century-page 203

53. Example of Bargello Work in Cushion and Satin

Stitches. Italian, seventeenth century page 207

54. Portion of a Coat. French, second half of the eighteenth century [639A - 1898, V. & A. M.] page 210

55. An Old Nottinghamshire Smock. From reproduction by the Fine Needlework Association page 213

56. An Old Oxfordshire Smock. From reproduction by the Fine Needlework Association page 217 Cut. Embroidery Frame . . . . ,,221

Cut. Tambour Frame . . . . ,, 222

Cut. Drawn Thread Border, from an Old Egyptian Example ...... page 232

Cut. Stitches for working the Edge of the Drawn-thread Border ..... page 233

57. Stitches : Stem Stitch, Split Stitch, Rope Stitch,

Buttonhole Stitch, French Knots, Bullion Knot, Tent Stitch (Opus Pulvinarium), Cross Stitch page 244 Cut. Back Stitch . . . . . ,, 246

Cut. Tailor's Buttonhole Stitch . . . ,, 247

Cut. Rose in French Knots. . . ,, 249

58. Fancy Stitches .....,, 252 Cut. Leaf outlined and veined in Chain Stitch. ,, 254

59. Chain Stitch, Square Chain (Open and Closed),

Herring-bone, Overlapping Herring-bone, Satin Stitch ...... page 255

Cut. Rose in Satin Stitch. From a Chinese Silk Cover ...... page 259

60. Single Coral, Tied Coral, Bead-edging or Braid

Stitch, Snail-trail, Darning . . page 261

61. Cable Stitch, Cable Stitch with Knot, Embroidery

Stitch, Long-and-short or Feather Stitch (Opus Plumarium) ..... page 266

Cut. The Seamstress's Feather Stitch . page 268

62. A Variety of Stitches, from Portuguese Piece, given on Plate No. 33 . . . . page 270

63. Different Forms of Brick Stitch . . „ 274

64. Fancy Stitches . . . . . ,,278

65. Fancy Stitches . . . . . ,,281

66. A Variety of Borders in Counterchange „ 285

67. Examples from Chinese work . . ,, 288

68. Plain Couching, Gold carried over String, Diaper

Couching, and Basket Stitch . . page 291

69. Four Borders in Gold Passing . . „ 296

70. Examples in Tambour Gold over Cardboard ; also the Use of Purl .... page 299

Cut. Fig. 65a. Leaf in Gold Thread . . ,, 303

71. Tambour Gold and Purl, Cushion Stitch, Burden

Stitch, Japanese Stitch, and Fancy Diapers for Background ..... page 305