Unbleached or bleached muslin (fruit of the loom, daisy cloth, longcloth, etc.), outing flannel, or cotton crepe are the materials most commonly used for nightgowns. For fine nightgowns nainsook may be used.

A plain kimono nightgown is chosen for the first problem because it is very simple in construction, very practical, and one of the most popular garments worn. The principles for drafting used in it are basic, and once understood may be used on garments for a baby, a child, or an adult.

Required Measurements

1.  Entire length - This should be taken from the highest point of the shoulder to the floor.

2.  Bust - This measure should be taken very loosely.

3.  Front waist length - This measure should be taken from the neck to the waistline.

Standard Measurements

1.  Total length 50".

2.  Bust 39".

3.  Length of front 16".

Required-Measurements-13

Fig. 11. - Kimono Nightgown

Hem around neck turned from the inside toward the outside, then turned back on itself

To decide on the length of any garment, take the number of inches the garment should be from the floor and then add 1" for shrinkage, 2" or 3" for the hem, and, if the person is still growing, add 2" or 3" more.

Required Material

Twice the length of material 36" wide is needed; 1 3/4 yard lace (3/4 yard for the neck, 1 yard for the sleeves); No. 70 white cotton for machine stitching; No. 8 Sharp needles; fine steel pins; embroidery cotton for initials; a hard drawing pencil; one eraser; a tracing wheel.

Preparing the Material Before Drafting the Pattern

1.  See that the ends of the material meet exactly when they are folded together. Frequently in the process of manufacturing material it is pulled out of shape and one end is longer than the other. In this case take hold of the short corner and the corner that is diagonally opposite from the short end. Pull on the short diagonal until the ends are even.

2.  Fold the material crosswise through the middle and then lengthwise.

3.  Pin the four selvages together carefully, putting the pins at right angles to the edge.

Drafting the Pattern (See Fig. 12)

After the material is folded first crosswise and then lengthwise, mark the corners A, B, C, D.

AB is the length of the garment. AC is 1/4 of the width of the garment including the length of the sleeve.

40            GARMENTS, FOR GIRLS

AI From A measure 3 1/2" on the AC line, and locate I.

Required-Material-14

Fig. 12. - Draft of Kimono Nightgown

PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 41 AJ From A measure 3 1/2" on the AB line, and locate J. Connect J and I by a curved line. This line indicates the back of the neck. AH From A measure 4 1/2" on the AB line, and locate H. Connect H and I by a curved line. This line indicates the front of the neck. AE From A measure 16" on the AB line and locate E. This line indicates the waistline. AF From A measure 8" on the AE line, and locate F. This line indicates the bust line. AK Measure 13" on the AC line, and locate

K. This line indicates the width of the bust measure, including the necessary fullness. KM From K draw a line 16" long and parallel to CD, and locate M. This line indicates the combined length of the sleeve and the underarm seam. FN From F draw a line 13" long and parallel to the line AC, and locate N. CL From C measure 8" on the CD line, and locate L. This line indicates the width of the sleeves. LO From L draw a line parallel to AC 3 1/2" long, and locate O. This line indicates the underarm seam.

NP From N draw a line 1 1/2" long on the KM line, and locate P.

OP Connect OP by a curved line. This line is the underarm curve.

DR From D on the DC line measure 3", and locate R. This is measured upward on the selvage to form the hem. Place the yardstick on R and draw a straight line to connect R with the underarm seam P. This line will form the side seam of the garment.

DS Measure 1/2" on the DC line, and locate S. Draw the line RS. Cut away the corner SD so as to have the length of the garment the same from NS as it is from F to B. This will make the gown hang evenly. Mark on the AB line the words "center front."

Cutting Out the Material

Do not remove the pins from the selvage but

1.  Cut out the side seam LOPR. Use long even strokes to avoid notches.

2.  Cut out the back neck JI.

3.  Before unfolding the garment, run the tracing wheel over the front neck line HI.

4.  Take out the pins and unfold the garment once.

Making

1.  Begin by pinning the. seams together at the sleeve.

2.  Lay the garment full length on the table and pin the side seams together carefully. Put the pins about 5" apart and at right angles to the edge.

3.  Side seam (French seam): It is advisable to let beginners use a yardstick and with the point of the scissors draw a line 1/4" parallel to the edge. This will be a guide in stitching on the machine.

4.  To make a French seam (Fig. 13):

(a)   Place the two wrong sides of the garment together and stitch the first stitching on the right side.

(b)   Open the seam and press it flat with the thumb and the finger nail.

Making-15

Fig. 13. - French Seam

A, First stitching; B, seam opened; C, wrong side of finished seam

(c)   Trim the seam closely. Leave

1/16" of the material.

(d)   Turn the gown wrong side out and crease the seam very flat. The stitching must be at the very top edge of the seam.

(e)   Hold the seam together by putting a few pins at right angles to the edge.

(f)   Hold it up to the light to be sure that the first seam is trimmed evenly so that no raw edges, will extend beyond the stitching, (g) Stitch again and make the seam as narrow as the material will allow. It should never be more than 14" wide. 5. Neck:

(a)   Turn a 1/8" hem around the neck from the inside toward the outside of the garment.

(b)   Crease this well.

(c)   Turn it back upon itself. This will leave two turned in edges.

(d)   Baste these edges together.

(e)   Sew the lace to these edges. Begin the sewing at the center of the back. Hold the lace towards you. Use the overhand stitch.

The lace may be a firm linen, Cluny, or torchon lace, but the best lace for this purpose is a narrow, tightly crocheted edging or tatting. Cotton coarser than No. 70 should not be used, (f) For other methods of sewing on lace see Fig. 85.

6.  Hem:

(a)   Try on the gown. Adjust it carefully at the shoulder, front, and neck.

(b)   Have another student take a yardstick and with one end on the floor (the end showing 1") see if the length is even. If the length is not even a pin should be put at the shortest point and one corresponding to that length at the front, another at the side and one at the back.

(c)   Take off the gown and trim it evenly along the bottom, using the pins as a guide.

(d)   For the bottom hem crease and press a 1/4" turn first. Then turn a 1 1/2" or 2" hem.

7.  Marking: Mark the initials with a pencil in the center of the front and 1" from the neck. Outline these with a chain or outline stitch. The first letter of either name may be traced on the center front of the gown or the initial may be purchased ready to be stamped on the gown.

8.  Pressing: A bowl with a little water and a sponge should be near the ironing board. A bottle with a sprinkler top is convenient for pressing. Moisten the garment and press it. Be careful to see that the iron follows the warp and the woof threads. By following these wrinkles will be avoided. Fold according to Fig. 11.

9.  Compute the cost: the time.

Teacher's Directions To Pupil

1.  Fold the material for drafting the pattern.

2.  Draft the pattern.

3.  Cut out the nightgown.

4.  Make the side seams.

5.  Fold the hem around the neck.

6.  Baste the hem around the neck.

7.  Try on the nightgown.

8.  Adjust the length and decide on the width of the hem.

9.  Turn the hem.

10.  Stitch the hem.

11.  Sew the lace around the neck and sleeves.

12.  Outline the initial.

13.  Press and fold the nightgown.

14.  Compute the cost.

15.  Figure out the time.

Questions

1.  What materials are suitable for nightgowns?

2.  What are the essential points to be considered in selecting the material?

3.  What are the essential points to be considered in selecting the trimming?

4.  What points are to be considered with regard to hygiene?

5.  What seams have been used in making the nightgown ?