1.  First Method (See Fig. 30).

Ordinarily, material varies in width from 27" to 36", but this is not wide enough for the bottom of some of the garments of adults. To provide the necessary width, gores are needed and these may be cut in different ways.

Figure 30 shows a nightgown cut out of 36" material. If the width BD is not sufficient, we may add a gore. By cutting part LONMD from under the sleeves all along the diagonal to the bottom, we may obtain two gores or rather four half gores. One of these gores may be sewed to the line ND by placing the line NOL with the selvage at DM. These, then, may be sewed with the broader top part LO to the lower pointed part D.

2.  Second Method (See Fig. 31).

To add gores to 27" material. If 27" material is used, as in cotton crepe, not only gores are needed to widen the bottom, but frequently the sleeves also must be added. (See Fig. 31

The dotted line AB indicates the center front and the length of the garment.

The line CND indicates the selvage of the

Chapter-IX-Gores-32

Fig. 30. - FiRst Method of Putting on Gores

27" material; MDN, the added gore; CH JN, the added sleeve. The sleeve should measure 5". It is more economical to buy and cut two nightgowns because one length of 1 1/4 yards will make the four gores and sleeves for both nightgowns. (See Fig. 31 II.)

Take a piece of material 1 1/4 yards long. This piece will furnish material for four gores and

Chapter-IX-Gores-33

Fig. 31. - Second Method of Putting on GoRes and Sleeves four sleeves. As shown in Fig. 31 II, the third and fourth sleeve must be pieced from parts cut away at the square neck.

3. Third Method (See Fig. 32).

AB Fold the material AB lengthwise. Keep the selvage edges on the right.

ABCD Mark the upper left-hand corner A, the lower left-hand corner B, the upper right-hand corner C, and the lower right-hand corner D.

LO Locate the underarm seam LO.

F Locate the middle point of DL and mark it F.

OLF From 0 measure 3 1/2" on the edge OL. Connect O and F by a lead pencil line. Cut away the corner LOF. This is the gore.

To sew on this gore, place the larger part of the gore OL so that D will meet L on the DH line.

Be sure that the selvage edge L of the gore is next to the selvage edge D. In many French chemises and nightgowns, one finds that the back gores are often considerably longer and wider than the front gores.

The best line and the neatest work are obtained by sewing the selvage edges of the gores to the selvage edges of the garment. If only one gore is used and two bias edges of the gore are sewed to the selvage edges of the garment, the straight edge is felled over the bias edge of the gore and a flat fell is made.

Chapter-IX-Gores-34

Fig. 32. - Third Method of Adding Gores