An apron is worn to protect the dress. The material must be selected to accord with the use of the apron.
Tea and afternoon aprons may be made of dainty, soft materials such as dimity, muslin, dotted swiss, crepe, or other soft material.
Butchers' aprons may be made of a white coarse linen, carpenters' aprons of ticking or twilled jean, kitchen aprons of calico, percale, or gingham, hospital aprons of strong unbleached muslin, bleached muslin, or twilled jean, nurses' aprons of twilled jean, strong white muslin, or costume cloth.
Fig. 14. - Partly Fitted Kimono Apron
A, Apron too large over shoulders; B, shoulder fitted by means of tucks.
Fig. 15. - Kimono Apron (Front view)
Fig. 16. - Kimono Apron (Back view)
Aprons which cover the whole dress often replace the house dress. They are frequently made on the kimono or princess style and may be made of chambray, seersucker, calico, gingham, or percale. (Figs. 14, 15, 16.)
Entire length of apron 52", length of front from neck to waist 16", bust measure, 39".
Two lengths of percale 36" wide, No. 70 white thread for the machine stitching, No. 50 white thread for buttonholes, No. 6 "between" needles for the buttonholes, 4 buttons 1/2" in diameter.
Parts of the Apron (See Fig. 17)
1. Body of the apron.
2. Pocket 5" by 6" made out of piece from the neck.
3. Belt 19" by 4". The belt lining must be pieced.
4. Cuff 3" by 16" at center and 2" near the underarm seam.
5, 6, 7, 8. The remainder of the cloth is cut in 1" strips of which 17" are used for placket facing, 2 pieces of 8" each for the back and the front of the neck, and 2 pieces of 11" each for the sides of the neck.
Preparing the Material for Drafting
1. Fold the material crosswise and then lengthwise.
2. Pin the selvages together as in the nightgown.
Drafting the Pattern
Let A be the upper corner of the folded edge and B the lower corner.
Let C be the upper corner of the selvage edge and D the lower corner.
Mark the fold AB "center front." AE On the fold AB measure 16", and locate E. EX Draw EX parallel to AC.
EM On the line EX locate M 13" from E. EMX is the waistline.
Fig. 18. - Draft of Kimono Apron with Tucks
AF On the line AB measure 8" from A, and locate P. FN At F draw a line parallel to EM. On this line locate N 13" from F. The line FN is the bust line. AK On the line AC measure 13", and locate
K. The line AK indicates the width of the garment including the tucks. KM From K draw a line parallel to CD to meet EX at M. CL On the line CD measure 8" from C, and locate L. CL indicates the width of the sleeve. NP On the line KM measure l 1/2" down from
N, and locate P. Join 0 and P by a curved line. LO From L draw a line 3 1/2" long parallel to
AC, and locate 0. LOP indicates the underarm seam. DR On the line CD measure 3" from D, and locate R. PR Join P and R.
The lines LOPR indicate the underarm and the side seams of the garment. AI On the line AC measure 3" from A, and locate I. AJ On the line AB measure 3", and locate J. AH On the line AB measure 4", and locate H.
IZ At I draw a line 3" long and parallel to AB, and locate Z.
JZ Join J to Z.
IT Extend IZ 1" further, and locate T.
HT Join H to T. HTZI indicates the neck line.
IY On the line AC measure 2" from I, and locate Y.
YW On the line AC locate W 2" from Y. At Y draw a line 6" long parallel to AC. At W draw a line 6" long parallel to AC. These lines will indicate the places for the tucks.
JDS. On the line CD measure 1/2" from D, and locate S. Join S and the line BD by a curved line. This line indicates the extra material that needs to be cut away so that the seam ND is not longer than the front FB.
Tracing and Cutting Out
1. Trace the lines marked for the tucks very plainly so that they may be seen through the four folds.
2. Cut out the neck.
3. Cut out the front neck as traced, that is, 1" deeper than the back.
4. Cut out the side seam and the underarm of the apron.
5. Unfold the apron until there are only two thicknesses.
6. Cut the belt, the cuffs, the neck and the placket finishing. Care must be taken to cut these small pieces as they are shown in the Figure. The pieces under the arms will be large enough to furnish all the material for the finishings if they are cut carefully.
The pocket which is 5" by 6" is made from the piece cut away at the neck.
The belt which is 19" by 4" and the lining (which must be pieced) are made from the pieces under the arm.
The cuffs, which are 3" by 16", are made from pieces under the other arm.
The pieces of cloth for bands, etc., are cut from what remains. Each strip is 1" wide. (See Fig. 17, Nos. 5, 6, 7, 8.)
7. Each piece should be marked with the student's full name.
(a) Make a 1/8" turn from the left to the right side all around the neck, notching the corners to the depth of the turn.
(b) Take the strips of 1" material that were cut. Make a 1/8" turn
Fig. 10. - Detail of Neck Finish for Apron
A, Fold of material before binding is put on; B, C, different ways of mitering corners; D, finished mitered corner; E, uneven basting; F, side basting.
along both edges on the wrong side. After the turns are folded each strip will be 3/4" wide. Care must be taken to have them long enough, since some length will be taken up in the mitering of the corners. If a hot iron is convenient press all of the strips.
(c) Baste the back and the front; then baste the side strips to the apron, being careful to make sure that the strips and the miters match exactly. The warp and woof threads must meet at the corners.
(d) Stitch the facing very close to each turn and finish the neck before cutting the placket or the opening in the back.
2. Underarm: Make French seams or French fell. They should not be more than 1/4" wide when finished.
(a) Cut from the neck down through the center of the back 16".
(b) Hem the right or the top side with a 3/4" hem.
(c) Face the left or the under side with a strip 17" by 1".
(d) Lock the corners of the placket at the neck.
4. Tucks: Crease the lines at Y and W.
Pin the tucks and stitch them approximately 1/2" wide. They are 1 1/2" apart. Stitch down 6" in the front and 5" in the back. Tie the threads on the wrong side. These tucks may vary in width. They may be made wider or narrower according to the size of the girl. (See Fig. 14.) One side is adjusted by means of tucks. The other side shown is too loose and consequently does not fit.
5. Hem: Use the gauge. Turn and pin a 2" or 3" hem. Turn under 1/4". Be careful to have a very even hem. Lay in very small pleats any surplus fullness. If the pleats are large they will form points or uneven places in the hem.
6. Pocket: The pocket is the piece cut from the neck piece. Face the top with a piece similar to the neck finish. Fold it lengthwise in halves and cut 1 1/2" up from the bottom diagonally to a point on both sides. Turn the edges under about 1/4". Place it 6" down from the waistline and 7" from the center front. Baste or pin it in place. Stitch it to the apron. Begin at a point 1/2" down from the top at one edge; stitch diagonally across to a point 1/2" from the side of the pocket; then stitch all around, finishing the other corner in the same way. This is done to strengthen the corners and to prevent the pocket from tearing easily when the hand is put into it. 7. Belt: See page 97.
1. Fold the material for drafting the pattern
2. Draft the pattern.
3. Cut out the apron.
4. Stitch the belt.
5. Cut the pieces for the finish of the neck, placket, pocket and sleeve.
6. Finish the neck.
7. Make the side seams.
8. Cut and finish the placket.
9. Try on the apron.
10. Decide on the size of the tucks at the shoulder.
11. Pin the belt to the waistline.
12. Decide on the size of the hem and turn it around the bottom.
13. Stitch the hem around the bottom.
14. Stitch the pocket to the apron.
15. Finish the sleeves.
16. Make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons.
17. Mark the apron with the initial.
18. Press the apron.
19. Fold the apron.
20. Compute the cost.
21. Figure out the time.
1. In what way does the pattern for the apron differ from that of the nightgown ?
2. What materials may be used for this type of apron ?
3. What should be considered in selecting materials for aprons?
4. What seams were used in making this apron?
5. What finishing did you use?
6. What precaution did you take in sewing the pocket to the apron?
7. What is characteristic of a good buttonhole?
8. How were the buttons sewed on?
9. Of what different materials are buttons made?