This garment, with the exception of the yoke, which is made of pink chambray, is made of unbleached muslin. The material is folded and

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Fig. 20. - Kimono Nightgown with Yoke the pattern drafted and cut in exactly the same way as the kimono apron and nightgown. The measurements also are the same.

Parts of the nightgown: Body, yoke, cuffs. Required Material

Two lengths of 36" wide material, 16"

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Fig. 21. - Draft of Kimono Nightgown with Yoke of 28" wide pink chambray (be sure the color is fast), pink embroidery cotton, basting thread, No. 70 white stitching thread, needles, pins, pencil, eraser, and tracing wheel as used for other garments.

Preparing the Material and Drafting the Pattern Fold the material and draft the pattern just as in the first nightgown; 3" or 3 1/2" may be cut out for the width of the neck. (See Fig. 21 and Fig. 22.)

Cutting Out the Garment

1.  Cut the side seam.

2.  Trace the neck line but do not cut until the yoke is basted on.

Drafting of Yoke (See Fig. 22)

Cutting-Out-the-Garment-24

Fig. 22. - Draft of Yoke for Kimono Nightgown

Cutting Out and Preparing the Yoke

1.  Cut 16" of pink chambray along the selvage.

2.  Cut this piece through the middle lengthwise.

3. Take one of these pieces and fold it through the center lengthwise, then crease the fold carefully.

4. Fold it crosswise through the center and crease this carefully. This will form a square.

Call the corner which has no selvage A.

Letter the lower folded corner B, and the selvage corners C and D. AJ On the side AB locate J 3" in from A. AI On the side AC locate I 3" in from A. JT Draw a line 3" long and parallel to AC, and locate T. IT Draw IT parallel to CD so as to form a square in the corner of the goods. AT Draw a diagonal line from A to T. UT On the diagonal line AT measure 1" from

T, and locate the point U.

Draw the curved line connecting I, U, and J.

This forms the neck line.

Measure 3 1/2" from the curved line toward the open edges of the square, and locate Q.

Put dots at intervals of about 1". These dots will form a dotted line the curve of which runs parallel to the neck line JUL

Crease and press firmly AI and AJ. These creased lines will indicate the middle of the front and the middle of the back and each shoulder line.

Cutting Out

1.  Cut through the four thicknesses around the upper and the lower 3 1/2" curved line.

2.  Pin together firmly.

3.  Cut a 3" gage.

Preparing the Yoke

1.  Unfold the yoke.

2.  Turn under 1/4" of these cut edges around the lower part of the yoke and around the neck. Crease each carefully.

3.  Press the edges down with a hot iron.

Fitting Yoke to Nightgown

1. Mark the center of the front and the center of the back. Spread on a table the nightgown on which the neck has been drafted. Use a contrasting thread along the folds.

2.  Fit the yoke on the gown so that the neck curves match.

3.  Pin the yoke smoothly and securely to the nightgown. Take care that the warp and the woof threads of both the yoke and the gown run in the same direction.

4.  After the yoke is pinned, baste all around it with an uneven side basting stitch.

5.  Baste a second time with small firm basting stitches 1/8" from the lower edge.

6.  Cut out the neck of the garment 1/4" above the neck line of the yoke.

7.  Crease down 1/4" around the curve of the neck of the gown to meet the yoke.

8.  Baste the two edges together. Be careful to see that the white does not extend over the pink.

9.  Stitch on the right side close to the upper edge, then stitch down the lower part of the yoke.

10. Tie the stitching threads on the wrong side and remove the basting threads by snipping them at short distances rather than by pulling them all at once.

Cuffs

1.  Take the piece left from the yoke and fold it once lengthwise. Then fold it again lengthwise.

2.  Cut this piece in four pieces lengthwise.

3.  Place one cut strip lengthwise along the selvage of the sleeve so that the cuff when turned back will come on the right side of the gown.

4.  Pin the cuff and the sleeve together, with the pins at right angles.

5.  Stitch the cuff on by machine. Stitch 1/4" from the edge.

6.  Open the seam. Press it flat between the thumb and finger-nail. Then turn the cuff over on the right side of the gown.

7.  Turn the raw edge under 1/4". Crease it carefully.

8.  Baste it down evenly and smoothly.

9.  Stitch close to the upper and the lower edge of the cuff.

Side Seam - Flat Fell

1. Turn the garment wrong side out and begin by pinning the ends of the sleeve evenly and securely.

Cutting-Out-the-Garment-25

Fig. 23. - Flat Fell

2. Then lay the garment on the table and pin the side seams together evenly.

3.  Stitch about 3/8" from the cut edge.

4.  Press the seam open with the thumb and finger nail.

5.  From the stitching line turn a fold less than 1/4" and crease this carefully. If a hot iron is convenient press the crease.

6.  Unfold the seam and cut away the material from the front or lower seam, leaving only 1/8" of the material extending above the stitching.

7.  Take the back or upper part of the seam and folding this over, trim off all surplus material. Only enough should be left to allow for a good seam.

8.  Baste the seam down with small stitches.

9.  Stitch close to the edge of the seam.

Hem

Try on the garment.

Finish the bottom just as you did the kimono nightgown.

Marking

Work all around the outline of the initials with a chain or an outline stitch.

The center of the letter may be filled with French knots.

Trimming A few scrolls may be drawn around the initial with a pencil, and these scrolls may be outlined or featherstitched.

Compute the cost: the time.

Teacher's Directions To Pupil

1.  Measure and fold the material for the nightgown.

2.  Draft the pattern for the nightgown.

3.  Cut out the garment except the neck.

4.  Cut the material for the yoke.

5.  Draft the yoke.

6.  Turn under and press the edges of the yoke.

7.  Baste the yoke to the garment.

8.  Stitch the yoke to the garment.

9.  Cut the cuffs.

10.  Stitch the cuffs to the gown.

11.  Make side seams.

12.  Try on the garment.

13.  Turn a hem at the bottom.

14.  Stitch the hem.

15.  Mark and embroider the initials.

16.  Press.

17.  Compute cost.

18.  Compare with ready-made garment.

Questions

1.  What materials were used in the nightgown?

2.  Which is the stronger muslin, the bleached or the unbleached?

3.  What are the characteristics of a good muslin?

4.  Will the pink chambray fade?

5.  What shall we do to prevent the colors from running in washing and thus spoiling the other clothes ?

6.  How shall we set colors?

7.  Is the pink chambray dyed in the piece or in the threads?

8.  How do you recognize this?

9.  Which is the better and why?

10.  In what way did this nightgown differ from the first one?

11.  What was repeated and what was new?

12.  After making this nightgown, what changes would you make if you made a gown for your little sister ?

13.  What would you do to make the second one in less time and probably make it better?

14.  Could you make a gown independently at home?

15.  Could you make a kimono wrapper after this nightgown pattern ?

16.  What changes would you make?