This nightgown is made according to the same measurements as the pattern just used. Instead of two tucks on each side of the shoulders as in the apron we have five, six or seven

Fig. 24. - KImono Nightgown Tucks and hand-made trimming may be used to advantage tucks. These tucks should be made with great accuracy. The hand-made trimming as shown in Figs. 25 and 26 can be made at a cost of not more than 2 or 3 cents. This will show the student how an inexpensive trimming is made. It will demand accuracy in measuring, especially in the use of the 3/8" or 1/2" according to the width of the scallops. The work on this

Fig. 25. - Hand-made Scallops for Nightgown

In this garment the scallops are made before the bias piece is stitched on garment should reveal a higher degree of workmanship than that on the preceding garment. It should show the student's progress in sewing. The material best suited is muslin, or long cloth, or, for finer garments, nainsook.

Required Materials

Twice the length of the garment in material 36" wide, No. 60 white thread for machine stitching, No. 40 crochet cotton for featherstitching, No. 7 "between" needles for featherstitching, 1 3/4 yards of fine bias lawn 2" wide for the neck and sleeve trimming, No. 90 or 100 thread for making the scallops, No. 9 or 10 needle for making the scallops, a table cushion and a coarse needle to mark the scallops for the trimming.

Fig. 26. - Detail of Hand-made Trimming for Nightgown

Here the scallops are made after the bias piece is stitched to the garment

Drafting the Pattern

Draft the pattern just as you did for the apron with the tucks - with one exception as shown in Fig. 18. Draw lines for the extra tucks between I and Y, between Y and W, and beside W. These lines should be parallel to the tucks at I, Y and W. They should be 6" long in front and 5" long in the back.

Tracing and Cutting Out

The same precaution must be observed here as was observed for cutting out the neck of the apron. Trace distinctly with a tracing wheel on the four layers before the garment is unfolded.

Construction

The tucks should be made first.

Fig. 27. - Kimono Nightgown with Hand-made Trimming

Side Seams

These can be finished with a French seam or with a flat fell seam.

Preparing the Trimming for the Neck and the Sleeves

1.  Cut a piece of sheer, fine lawn on the true bias and then cut off strips 2" wide and 1 3/4 yards long. This will be sufficient for the sleeves and the neck.

2.  Put the cut edges together and fold the strips through the center. Crease these well or press them with a hot iron.

3.  Put this folded strip on the weighted table cushion and lay the tapeline on the strip 1/8" from the edge.

4.  Take a very coarse needle and prick through the material every 3/8" or 1/2" ac-cording to the width you desire the scallops to be.

5.  When the entire length is marked, thread a fine needle with No. 90 or 100 thread. At each pricked point make two overhand stitches over the folded edge. Draw the thread very firmly to form the scallop.

6.  Put the needle between the two layers of the material to the prick. Pull out the needle and repeat the overhand stitch.

Sewing Trimming to the Garment

When the scallops are finished, turn under the edge of the neck 1/8"; turn in an even line. Turn an edge of the same width on the sleeve.

1.  Take the scallops, start at the right side center of the back Let the trimming extend a little beyond the nightgown so as to cover the turn of the material on the wrong side.

2.  Baste the scallops on the neck and sleeves.

3.  Stitch the turned edge of the neck and the sleeves closely to the trimming.

4.  On the wrong side of the garment turn under the rough edge of the scallops to make a 1/4" hem. Use a gauge so as to be sure that the strip is the same in width throughout.

5.  Crease this turn well. Cut away any surplus material under the turn. Baste this down so as to make a hem or fell seam.

6.  Stitch by machine close to the turned edge. A finish of featherstitching on the right side is preferable. Featherstitch the tucks. Adjust the length.

Hem

Put in the hem as in the previous garments.

Marking Outline or embroider the initials

Pressing

Press the featherstitching and the initials on the wrong side. Press the rest of the garment very carefully on the right side. The pressing of the embroidery on the wrong side will make it stand out in relief.

Questions

1.  What material has been used in the nightgown?

2.  What material has been used to make the trimming?

3.  Explain how the trimming has been made.

4.  What is the difference between the tucks made in the nightgown and those made in the apron?

5.  What stitches have been used in the making of the nightgown ?

6.  What seams have been used in the making of the nightgown?