This apron, like the kimono apron, may have the skirt closed or open. If the skirt is closed, it often takes the place of a dress skirt, and worn with a white waist it makes a very satis-factory garment for the student in a food laboratory, for the nurse in a hospital, or for the waitress whose work requires a clean and neat appearance. For nursing and cooking aprons such materials as Indian head, twilled jean, costume cloth, muslin, crash, drilling, etc., may be used. For housework any material suggested for the kimono apron may be chosen.

Standard Measurements

The same standard measurements as for the kimono apron are used: Length 52", length of front 16", bust 36".

Required Material

Twice the length of 36" wide material, No. 90 white thread for stitching, white basting thread, No. 8 needles

"Sharps" for basting, No. 8 needles "betweens" for buttonholes, No. 50 white thread for buttonholes, No. 36

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Fig. 33. - Cooking or Serving Apron (Front view)

Fig. 34. - Cooking or Serving Apron (Back view) white thread for sewing on buttons, No. 6 or 7 needles "Sharps" for sewing on buttons, 6 white pearl buttons 1/2" in diameter.

Parts of the Apron

(1) Body of apron, (2) pocket obtained from the neck piece, (3) facings to strengthen the shoulder pieces, (4) bias facings for the neck and pocket finish, (5) belt. (See Fig. 32.)

Preparing the Material for Drafting the Pattern

Straighten the material, fold it first lengthwise and then crosswise, and pin according to the directions for the kimono apron.

Drafting the Pattern (See Fig. 32).

AB the length of the apron.

AC 1/4 of the entire width.

AE From A measure 16" on the AB line, and locate E. This indicates the waist line.

EL From E draw a line 12" long and parallel to the AC line, and locate L. This indicates the point where the side seam will come.

AF From A measure 8" on the AB line, and locate F. This line indicates the bust line.

AJ From A measure 4" on the AB line, and locate J. This line indicates the chest line.

AG Draw a 4" square in the upper left-hand corner A, locating thus AIGJ. These lines indicate the neck line.

AH From A measure 9" on the AC line, and locate H. This line indicates the width of the chest.

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Fig. 35. - Draft for Cooking or Serving Apron

HK From H draw a line 16" long and parallel to the CD line.

LM From L draw a line upward 3" long and parallel to the CD line. This indicates the underarm opening.

ON Draw a line 1 1/2" below and parallel to IH, and locate ON. This line indicates the front shoulder opening.

SS' On each side of N draw a straight line 3/4" long, and locate S and S'. Connect S, S' and O by straight lines. This will form a wedge which is S'O 1 1/2" wide between S and S' and runs to a point at O. This will adjust the apron to the slope of the shoulders. Round the corners S and S' like the corners OGI. (See Fig. 35.)

SUM From S draw a curved line, SUM. Curve it 1/2" at T and 4" above K on the KH line.

DR From D on the DC line measure 3", and locate R.

Tracing and Cutting

1.  Trace with the tracing wheel all the drafted lines around the neck and shoulders.

2.  Cut out the rounded neck JGOI. Then cut out along the traced line the underarm and side seam HSS'UM.

3.  When cutting the shoulder seam NO, be very careful that the two fronts are short and that the part S'OIH remains for the back. This makes the back longer so that it may button over the shoulder on to the front piece.

4.  On the four shoulder pieces cut on each side of N the wedge shaped piece NSO. This is 3/4" from each side of NS slanting to a point at O.

5.  Round one corner of the front piece by marking 3/4" down on each side and cutting to that point. When this corner is rounded, fold each shoulder piece through the center lengthwise and cut each remaining corner exactly like the first one.

6.  Cut out 5 for the belt, 3 for the shoulder facings, and 4 for the bias bands. Save 2 cut out from the neck for the pocket. (See Fig. 35.)

7.  Mark each piece on the wrong side with its full name.

Making the Apron

1. Belt:

The four pieces marked 5 are used for the belt. Each pair must be sewed together so that the seam comes at the back.

(a) Join two pieces together with a plain seam and crease this seam well.

(b)   Place the belts with the right sides and seams together. Pin two long sides and one short side evenly together.

(c)   Mark with the yardstick a straight line 1/4" from each edge of the belt.

(d)   Follow this line and stitch the three sides by machine.

(e)   Open each seam and crease it flat.

(f)   Miter each corner.

(g)   Start at the small stitched end to turn the belt right side out. After you have it turned back 1" or 2" (so as to make a tiny pocket) insert a yardstick and draw the belt over it. This will facilitate the process of turning the belt right side out.

(h) Straighten the seams of the belt and crease them very flat so that the stitching will be at the very edge. Use pins to pull out the corners. Make these corners square.

(i) Finish the short open end either round or square, and turn both sides exactly alike.

(j) Stitch very close to the edge all around the belt. It is advisable to press the belt before it is stitched the second time.

2.  Shoulder facing:

The four pieces marked 3 are used to reinforce and face the shoulder pieces. Before basting them to the apron, stitch 1/8" hem on the lower side of each facing and then place the wrong side of the apron next to the wrong side of the facing, being careful that the warp and the woof run in the same direction.

3.  Making of the bias strips:

Cut the bias strips as indicated in the drafting of the pattern. There will be four strips 3" wide. Fold the cut edges together and cut through the center fold. This will give a piece 1 1/2" wide. Again join these pieces and fold carefully in half and cut through center fold. Join these. One long piece 3/4" wide will remain. A piece 1 1/2 yards long is required for each front and the same amount for each back. To prepare the facing fold this 3/4" strip with cut edges together at the center and crease them well; or better, press them with a hot iron.

Bias facings or bindings folded in this manner will give satisfactory results. 4. Basting the bias facing to the apron:

Before basting the bias facing to the apron, see that the shoulder facing is

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Fig. 36. - Detail of Sewing Bias Facing on Cooking or

Serving Apron

A, Facing stretched into shape; B, wrong side of edge turned on the right side of apron; C, facing basted to apron; D, first stitching near the outside edge of bias piece; E, second stitching near the inner edge of bias piece.

basted carefully and that the corners are well rounded.

(a) Turn and crease well (or press with hot iron) an 1/8" even turn from the left to the right side around the edge of the neck and of the armseye of the front and the back of the apron.

(b) Take the folded bias piece beginning at the underarm seam and apply this as a facing on the right side of the apron. Make sure that the edge of the bias is exactly even with the first turn. Baste the facing with an uneven basting stitch, taking care to stretch the outer edge of the bias facing almost to a semi-circle around the curves of the neck and of the armseye. The facing must be stretched so that it lies perfectly flat around the curves without the slightest wrinkle.

At the neck where the curves are reversed the inward curve must be stretched. Baste only around the outer edge. When both the front and the back are basted, stitch very close to the outer edge, using as fine a needle as the thread will allow. When the first stitching is done on both the front and the back, then remove the basting thread and stitch the lower edge. (Fig. 36.) Joining the back to the front:

Join the back to the front with a French seam.

Putting in the hem:

(1) Try the apron on, (2) adjust the length, (3) put in the hem as done in previous garments. Sewing on the pocket:

See page 58 for description of pocket of kimono apron. Stitching the belt to the apron:

Stitch the belt to the apron by placing the seams of the belt at the center of the back of the waist. Stitch two parallel rows of stitching on each side of the seam of the belt. Buttonholes: Sewing on buttons: Pressing and folding:

Moisten the apron with a sponge, press and fold carefully. Compute the cost: the time.

Teacher's Directions To Pupil

1.  Fold the material for drafting the pattern.

2.  Draft the pattern.

3.  Cut out the apron.

4.  Cut out the belt.

5.  Make the belt.

6.  Reinforce the shoulder seams.

7.  Cut the bias binding.

8.  Prepare the bias binding.

9.  Pin and stitch the bias binding to both front and back of the apron.

10.  Sew up the side seams.

11.  Prepare the pocket.

12.  Try on the apron.

13.  Decide where the buttons and buttonholes should come.

14.  Pin the belt to the apron.

15.  Pin the pocket to the apron.

16.  Adjust the length.

17.  Turn the hem at the bottom.

18.  Stitch the hem at the bottom.

19.  Stitch the belt to the apron.

20.  Stitch the pocket to the apron.

21.  Make the buttonholes.

22.  Sew on the buttons.

23.  Mark the apron with the initial.

24.  Press the apron.

25.  Fold the apron.

26.  Compute the cost.

27.  Figure out the time.

Questions

1.  What materials can be used for this type of apron ?

2.  How was the bias binding cut?

3.  What precautions are necessary in sewing the bias binding together?

4.  What is the difference between a true bias and a garment bias ? How do you recognize each ?

5.  When can a garment bias be used and where must the true bias be used?

6.  What seams were used in this garment?