The petticoats shown in Fig. 37 are cut without the assistance of paper patterns. The measurements are marked directly on the cloth.

Chapter-XI-Petticoats-39

Fig. 37. - Six-gored FlaNNel Petticoat with Scalloped Edge

A, Double-hemmed placket; B, division of the band; C, fell and catch-stitched seam

A petticoat for either children or adults may be cut with 2, 4, or 6 gores, depending on whether the material has a right or a wrong side. If it has a right or a wrong side then either 2 gores or 6 gores are necessary.

Petticoats may be made of outing flannel, sateen, woolen shirting, cambric, muslin, etc.

Standard measurements for a girl of 15 years: Waist 26", length 22".

Outing Flannel Petticoat

Required Material

1 1 /4 yards cotton flannel or 2 lengths of the material, No. 70 white thread for stitching, No. 50 white thread for basting, No. 40 white thread for buttonholes, No. 6 needles, 1 white button 3/4" in diameter, No. 40 crochet cotton if, instead of a hem, crocheted scallops are preferred, No. 6 crochet hook.

Four-Gored Petticoat

A four-gored petticoat may be made of cotton flannel or any other material which has no right or wrong sides.

Cutting (See Fig. 38 I).

Cut 1 1/4 yards of material 27" wide into two equal parts.

On the selvage edge of one of these two parts measuring 22 1/2" long, cut a strip 22 1/2" long and

10" wide. This is for the front gore.

AB Fold this strip lengthwise. (See AB, Fig. 38 I.) Keep the fold to the left and the cut edges to the right.

AC From the upper folded edge A measure 3 1/2" on the upper edge, and locate C.

CD With a ruler, draw a sharp line from C to the lower right-hand corner of the goods. See D (I) in Fig. 38 I. Cut along the line CD. What remains is the front gore.

From the 17" of goods left uncut, cut a band 2" wide along the selvage. The remaining goods will form the back gore (II). Fold this piece in the center. (See Fig. 38 II.) On the fold cut down 10" for a placket.

Place the remaining half of the goods (22 1/2" long) with the cut edges at the top and the bottom and the selvage edges at the sides. (See Fig. 38 III.)

AE From the upper left-hand corner measure 9" or one-third of the width of the material on the cut edge. Mark that point with a pin.

DE' From the lower right-hand corner measure 9" on the cut edge DE', and put in a pin. Draw a line connecting the two pins. EE' Cut along the line EE'. EL From the top of each bias EE' measure

Required-Material-40Required-Material-41Required-Material-42

Fig. 38. - Draft for Petticoats, Four and Six GoRES

22 1/2", or the side length. Put in a pin at

L. LM Draw a curved line LM connecting the pin with the bottom of the skirt.

Making

1.  Pin one bias side of the front gore to the selvage edge of the side gore.

2.  Pin the bias edge of this side gore to the straight edge of the back gore. Be sure that all the gores are even at the waist.

3.  Pin on the other side gore the same as the first one.

4.  Pin the back gore to the side gore.

5.  Stitch all these seams.

6.  Make each seam a flat fell seam. This may be stitched by machine or catch stitched.

7.  Fold the front gore straight down the center.

8.  Locate a point 3 1/2" on each side of the center fold A and locate C.

9.   Locate a point l 1/2" from the top A.

10.  Join this point to 0 by a straight line.

11.  Cut away the goods on this line. This

Making-43

Fig. 39. - Placket with Uneven Hems (Wrong side of material)

A, First turn of hems folded and marked; B, second turn folded; C, narrow hem overlaps the large one; D, hems stitched and bottom of placket reinforced.

cutting away will prevent the bulging of the skirt in front.

12.  Make a double-hemmed placket in the back, 10" in length (Fig. 39).

13.  Divide the skirt into 4 parts, one point at the center of the front, one point between the center and the back on each side. Mark these points with thread of a contrasting color.

Putting on the Band

1.  Run two gathering threads around the top of the skirt. Put the first one in 1/8" from the edge of the skirt and the second one 1/8" from the first one.

2.  Make sure that the belt is 3" or 4" longer than the waist measure. This extra allowance is to be divided 1" or 2" for overlapping, and a turn of at least 1" at each end of the band at the place where the strain comes on account of the button and the buttonhole.

3.  Measure off from each end the amount to be turned over for the strengthening of the end. Mark these points with a thread of a contrasting color.

4.  Using these points as ends of the band, divide the remainder of the band into 4 equal parts. Mark each point with a thread of a contrasting color.

5.  Draw up the shirring strings of the skirt to meet the band approximately.

6.  Pin the right side of the band to the wrong side of the skirt.

7.  Be sure that the middle of the front of the band meets the middle point of the skirt. Pin it securely.

8.  At both ends of the band, turn and pin back the amount allowed for strengthening the button and buttonhole.

9.  Pin the end of the placket to what is now the end of the band.

10.  Bring together the mark for the center of each side of the skirt and of the center of each side of the band.

11.  Push the shirring of the skirt about 1" from the center of the side of the band toward the back. This will give more fullness to the back and less across the front and the hips.

12.  Pin or baste the skirt and band together.

13.  Draw up the shirring threads so that the skirt fits the belt exactly.

14.  Fasten the shirring threads by winding them around the pins at each end of the band.

15.  In stitching the band to the skirt keep about 14" from the edge.

16.  Open the seam and crease it down. Then press it back again.

17.  Turn under the raw edge of the band.

18.  Bring this turned edge to meet the shirring threads.

19.  Baste or pin the band down.

20.  Stitch all around the band. See that the edges are square and that the end of the belt and the end of the skirt meet exactly. Finishing the Bottom

Putting-on-the-Band-44

Fig. 40. - Detail of Sewing a Band to Garment

The bottom may be hemmed or scalloped.