Shirt waists are made of a great many different materials. They may be made of silk, wool, cotton or linen. The material should be chosen with regard to its use and suitability. The main factors to be considered in buying shirt waist material for everyday wear are ease in laundering and durability.

Required Material

One and one-half yards of material 32" or 36" wide will make a shirt waist for the average girl. (See Fig. 73 for placing the pattern on the material.)

Standard Measurements

Length of back 15", bust 38".

From these measurements, according to instructions given in Chapter XIV, the following measurements are obtained:

Length of back 15", width of back 13" + 1"

= 14", underarm seam 7 1/2", length of front

15 1/2", width across the chest 15", bust 38", neck

13", waist 26", length of the sleeve - elbow length 13" - total length 22 1/2". For the taking of measurements see Fig. 5.

Required-Material-79

Fig. 71. - Shirt Waist Made out of One and One-Half

Yards of Material The skirt is described on page 144, Fig. 51

Drafting the Pattern

Cut a piece of paper 22" long and 20" wide. Mark the corners A, B, C, D. AB represents the length of the waist and the center back. AC represents one-half of the front and back widths of the waist.

CD represents the center front.

AE From A measure 1" on the AB line, and locate E. EF From E draw a line parallel to the AC

Required-Material-80

Fig. 72. - Draft fob Shirt Waist line, and locate F on the CD line. Mark this line "neck line." EG From E measure 15" down on the AB line and locate G.

GH From G draw a line parallel to the AC line, and locate H on the CD line. Mark this line "back waistline." EI From E measure 7 1/2" on the AB line, and locate I. IJ From I draw a line parallel to the AC line, and locate J on the CD line. Mark this line "bust line." EK From E measure 3 3/4" on the AB line, and locate K. KL Draw a line from K parallel to the AC line, and locate L on the CD line. Mark this line "chest line."

Drafting the Back

EM From E measure 2 1/4" on the EF line, and locate M. MN From M draw a line 1/2" long and parallel to EA, and locate N. EN Connect E and N by a curved line. This will form the back neck line. KO From K draw a line 7" long on the chest line, and locate 0. OP From 0 draw a line 2 1/4" long and parallel to the KE line, and locate P. PQ From P draw a line 1/2" long and parallel to the EF line, and locate Q. This will form the curve of the armseye near the shoulder seam.

QN Connect Q and N with a straight line.

This will form the shoulder seam. QO Connect Q and O with a slightly curved line. This will form part of the armseye. IR From I on the bust line measure 9", or one-fourth of the bust measure, and locate

R. RO Connect R and O by a curved line. Use the curve marked " arm curve" in the chart in order to have a perfect curve. GS From G measure 8" on the waistline, and locate S. SR Connect R and S with a straight line.

This line indicates the underarm seam.

Drafting the Front

FT From F measure 2 1/2" on the CD line, and locate T.

FU From F measure 2 1/2" on the neck line, and locate U.

UV From U draw a line 1/2" long upward and parallel to the FC line, and locate V.

VUT Connect VUT with a curved line. Use the curve of the chart marked "neck curve." This line indicates the front of the neck. Measure down 1" from U on the CD line, and locate X. Starting from below U draw a line about 6" long, parallel to the AC line, and locate 2X.

VW Place the point of the chart beginning with 1" on V and draw a line the length of the back shoulder seam or 5 1/4". Let the

5 1/4" meet the horizontal line X, and locate

W. LY From L draw a line 7 1/2" long on the chest line, and locate Y. WY Connect W and Y with a slightly curved line. YR Place the chart with the "arm curve" on

Y and let the point rest on the bust line.

Draw the arm curve. TZ From T measure 15 1/2" on the CD line, or the length of the front, and locate Z. Z2 Measure 6" and locate Z2. SZ2 Place the sleeve curve of the chart on S and connect S and Z2 with a curved line. For a close fitting shoulder seam make the front shoulder seam 1/4" shorter than the back and stretch it on the back seam. Be sure that V and N and Q and W meet. Curve the shoulder seams at the middle, A, 14".

Cutting Out the Pattern

Cut the pattern out along the back neck line EN, the shoulder seam NQ, around the armseye QRYW, the front shoulder seam WV, and the front neck VUT. Cut around the waistline GSZ2 and Z. Separate the pattern at RS.

Cutting-Out-the-Pattern-81

Fig. 73. - Pattern of Shirt Waist Placed on Material

36" Wide

Parts of the Shirt Waist

1 back, 2 fronts, 2 sleeves, 2 cuffs, 1 collar.

Placing the Pattern on the Material (See Fig. 73.)

There are no seams allowed on the pattern. The edge of the pattern, as in the middy, is the line where the seams are to be joined. This indicates the stitching line.

Allow 3/8" for all seams. Do not trim the edges on the two fronts until the shirt waist has been tried on and until the style of the collar and the closing of the front have been decided upon.

Creasing and Pressing the Seams

Do not remove the paper pattern from the material until all of the edges are turned back over the pattern.

1.  Pin the pattern securely to the material.

2.  Fold one layer of the material over the

* paper pattern at the neck, the shoulder seams, the underarm seams, the armseye, and the waistline. Turn over only one layer of the material. Crease this well over the edges. Crease it first by hand and then press it with a hot iron. (See Fig. 74.)

3.  On the opposite side crease the extending seams back so that the two creased edges are exactly even. Press with a hot iron.

4. In washable material crease and press the center front. In silk or woolen material mark

Cutting-Out-the-Pattern-82

Fig. 74. - Shirt Waist Pattern Pinned to Material

A, Seams creased over the pattern; B, arm seam notched to fit the pattern the center front with a contrasting basting thread or with tailor's chalk.

5. Turn back and crease a 3/8" turn around the top of each sleeve.