The envelope chemise is a garment which at the present time is well liked and much worn by young girls. It is a combination of corset cover and drawers. Muslin, longcloth, cotton crepe or seersucker is the material most commonly used for the chemise. For fine garments, nainsook may also be used. (Figs. 82 and 83.)

Required Material

Two lengths of 36" material, measured from the shoulder to the knee, are required to make this garment.

Pattern

The back of the shirt waist pattern is used in making the top of the envelope chemise.

Folding the Material for Cutting (See Fig. 84).

1. Take the two required lengths of the material and fold them through the center crosswise and then lengthwise. Make the folds even and pin the selvages together. Place the material in front of you with the folded edge on the left side, the selvage on the right side and the cut edges on the top.

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Fig. 82

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Fig. 83. - Back and Right

Side of Envelope Chemise

A, Box pleat. B, Box pleat stitched 1 1/2" on each side of the pleat.

Fig. 82. - Front of Envelope Chemise A, Fullness taken up with tucks. B, Reinforced front closing.

2. Take the back of the shirt waist pattern and place it with the center of the back 3" from the folded edge so that the center back line G is parallel with the folded edge of the goods and 3" from that edge, and the center of the neck line E is at the cut edge of the goods and 3" from the folded edge AB. The addi-

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Fig. 84. - Draft foR Envelope Chemise tional 3" will allow for the necessary fullness.

3.   Pin the pattern securely to the cloth.

4.   This garment is cut out lower around the neck than the shirt waist. Therefore, on the shoulder seam, measure 2" from the armseye toward the neck, and locate N2. (See Fig. 84.)

6. From E on the center back measure down 3 1/2", and locate K. From K draw a line 3 1/2" long and parallel to the bottom of the pattern, and locate Z. Connect Z and N by a curved line. This forms the curve of the back neck line. The front neck line is drawn 1" deeper than the back. (See K2Z2.) Connect Z2, with N2.

Extend the KZ line to the AB line and at a point 1" from the folded edge AB draw a line 3" long and parallel to the AB line. This will indicate the place for the first tuck. Draw three additional lines parallel to this first line, and 1/4" apart, to indicate the remaining tucks in this group.

From the last line in this group, measure 1" and draw a line 3" long parallel to the first group of lines. Then draw four more lines parallel to this first line and 1/4" apart for the second group of tucks. (See Fig. 84 K2 Z2.)

Bottom of Chemise (See Fig. 84).

The bottom of this chemise may be finished in different ways. The model here presented is very simple in construction. It may be made with or without the center scallop FJ.

Preparing the Material for the Scallops

1.   Take the lower folded edge and fold it lengthwise in the middle. Crease and press this well. This fold is indicated by FJ (Fig. 84).

2.   Then fold it again. Press this also. This will divide the width of the material BD into four parts, and is indicated by I and I2 (Fig. 84). From the lower folded edge I), measure upward on the selvage 2", and locate H. Connect H with the waist line S by a straight line.

From the lower folded edge B measure 4" upward on the folded AB line, and locate L.

Draw a 2" square in the lower left-hand corner and locate BM and NO, connecting the different points at the bottom.

Connect LN by a straight line and NIF I2H by curved lines. For these curves use the curves marked "neck curves" on the chart.

Tracing

With the tracing wheel trace:

1.  Around the extended neck line K2Z2.

2.   Trace closely around the edge of the pattern marked "back of shirt waist" as far as the center waistline. Then trace the waistline and extend the line to the folded edge of the goods.

3.  At the bottom trace the front curve LNI.

4.  Trace the tucks very plainly, so that they may be seen on both thicknesses of the cloth.

Cutting Out the Material

1.  Cut out the upper extended neck curve KZN2.

2.  The shoulder seam N2Q and the armseye QOR.

3.  The side seam RSH.

4.  Around the bottom HLF, as far as I.

5.  At this point cut out the upper layer only, NL. Take off the upper part of the goods. This is the front. The longer piece with the folded corners which remains forms the back part of the chemise.

6.  From this piece cut out, in the center of the back from the extended waistline to the neck, the 3" allowed for fullness. This will give the needed fullness in the seat and less fullness in the back of the waist.

Making

1.  Stitch the tucks in the front.

2.  Make French seams for the side seams, or, if the material is soft and firm, French fell seams may be used. This is a satisfactory seam if the material is both thin and firm.

3.  Use the same type of seam for the back seam.

4.  The center of the fold of the material meets the seam at the back so that it forms a box pleat 1 1 /2" on each side of the center side of the seam. (See Fig. 83 A, B.)

5.   Crease this pleat well on both sides and baste it to the garment.

6.   Take a piece of bias binding and pin this over the pleat. Turn the edges of the binding under on each side.

7.   Stitch the binding to the garment, following the edge very closely.

Reinforcing the Front

Reinforce the point L at the center front with a double piece of material 2 1/2" by 2" when fin-ished so that the buttonholes will not tear out so easily. To make it:

1.   Cut a piece of muslin 5 1/2" long and 2 1/4" wide.

2.  Fold this through the middle crosswise.

3.   Stitch a plain seam on the two longer sides.

4.   Open these seams and turn this piece inside out.

5.   Crease it until it is even and flat, and fold it through the center lengthwise.

6.  Measure 1" on the crease from the folded edge and put a pin at that point.

7.  Put the right side of the garment with the point L directly on the pin in the piece already prepared.

8.  Baste this piece carefully to the chemise. See that the warp and woof threads of the piece and the chemise run parallel.

9.  Make two rows of stitching, the first one very close to the edge, and the second 1/8" away. (See Fig. 82 B.)

Fitting the Garment

Pin the shoulder seams together and try the garment on. See that it hangs perfectly straight in the front and in the back, and that the shoulder seams are in place. See that the garment fits snugly around the underarm and shoulder. Adjust the length and the width of the shoulder seam. This varies according to the type of trimming.