Preparing the Band for the Corset Cover

1.  Cut off a band 4" longer than the waist measure, the 4" to be divided as follows: 1" on each side to be turned under to reinforce the band at the button and the buttonhole, 1" to. be allowed for shrinkage, and 1" for the lapping of the right over the left side.

2.  Fold the band end to end to find the center back. Mark this with a running stitch of contrasting thread.

3.  From the center back, on both sides, take one-fourth of the waist measure and from this subtract 3/4". This will locate the points for the underarm seams. Mark each of these points with contrasting thread.

4.  On each side of the center back mark one-half of the waist measure plus 1". This inch is allowed for shrinkage and lapping. Mark these points also with a contrasting thread.

5.  At each end turn under 1" allowed for reinforcing the fastenings.

6.  Pin the right side and the center back of the belt to the wrong side and the center back of the corset cover. Pin exactly at the traced waistline.

7.  Pin each marked side seam of the band to the underarm seam of the corset cover.

8.  Pin each front to each end of the band. Be sure that the edges of the band and the front meet very accurately.

9.  Draw up the gathering thread around the waist to fit the band.

10.  On each side of the side seam leave a space of 1 1/2" without gathering.

11.  Arrange the gathers carefully. Leave more gathers at the center back and near each center front than at the sides.

12.  Baste the band to the corset cover securely. Follow the waistline tracing. (Fig. 77.)

Making

After the front closing is made, the side seam stitched once, the shoulder seam pinned together, and the band basted in its proper place, the corset cover should be fitted. Put every seam in its proper place and any mistakes will be quickly seen.

1.  First pin the corset cover together at the waistline.

2.   Then pin the fronts together as they should be when the garment is finished.

3.   See that the shoulder and underarm seams are in their proper places.

4.   The armseye should fit snugly under the arm. If it is too loose take in at the underarm seam; if it is too narrow, cut notches enough to make the arm comfortable; but before making many alterations, examine the shoulder seam. This, as well as the underarm seam, helps to regulate the width of the armseye.

5.   The corset cover should not fit tight over the bust.

6.  The fullness can be regulated by the underarm and the front closing. If the garment should be too tight, the under part of the hem may be left out and a false hem may be added.

Hold the trimming around the neck and the sleeve of the corset cover and decide how far neck and armseye may be cut out. The corset cover should fit snugly around the armseye, but it should not bind.

7.  After having decided upon all these points:

(a) Finish the front closing.

(b)   Finish the underarm seam with a French seam.

(c)   Join the shoulder seams with a flat fell.

(d)   Stitch the band securely to the corset cover and open this seam well and then press it back on the band.

(e)   Make an even turn of 1/8" on the cut edge of the band and turn it over, the last stitching to be on the right side of the corset cover.

(f)   Overhand each edge of the band at the front.

(g)   Stitch the band down close to the turned edge and all around it.

Fastenings

1.  Make one horizontal fan and barred buttonhole in the band. Make the first buttonhole in the fly and directly under the trimming.

2.  Divide the right side front into three or four parts and cut the first buttonhole up and down, and near the trimming of the neck cut the other two or three buttonholes at equal distances.

Trimming of the Neck and the Armseyes

A great variety of trimmings may be used for corset covers but the aim should be to have the trimming durable as well as pretty. Ribbon in underwear should be used only on rare occasions, and not for daily wear. To draw in the surplus fullness around the neck, crocheted cords or tape may be used.

Teacher's Directions To Pupil

1.  Prepare the right side front closing.

2.  Prepare the left side front closing.

3.  Make the underarm seam. Stitch the first seam for the French seam only.

4.  Make two rows of gathering threads around the bottom.

5.  Prepare the band.

6.  Pin the corset cover to the band.

7.  Pin the shoulder seam together, seam on the right side.

8.  Fit the corset cover and if there are to be any alterations, make them. Decide on the neck finishing and the cutting out of the neck.

9.  Stitch the shoulder seams. Make a flat felled seam.

10.  Finish the underarm seam.

11.  Stitch the band to the corset cover.

12.  Stitch the front closing.

13.  Finish each armseye and the neck.

14.  Cut the buttonholes.

15.  Sew on the buttons.

16.  Mark the initials.

Questions

1.  What pattern may be used in cutting out the corset cover?

2.  What changes are made in the pattern ?

3.  Name suitable materials that may be used for the corset cover.

4. .Name suitable trimming that may be used.

5.  What points are to be considered in selecting the material? The trimming?

6.  Mention different ways of finishing the top, the bottom, and the front closing.

7.  What seams are used in the making of the corset cover?

8.  What is the most economical way to cut out the corset cover?