Cut out around the neck EN and the shoulder seam NQ, then all around the armseye, QORYW, the front shoulder seam WV, and the front neck VT. Then separate the pattern at RS.
Drafting the Sleeve
Cut a piece of paper 23" long and 16" wide, fold this through the center lengthwise, and mark the corners A, B, C, D.
AB, the folded edge, represents the length of the sleeve and the fold of the material.
AC represents 1/2 the width of the sleeve.
CE From C measure down 4", or 1/4 of the width of the sleeve, on the CD line, and locate E.
AE Connect AE by a straight line.
AI From A on the AC line, measure 4", or one-half of AC, and locate I.
IJ From I draw a line 13 1/2" long and parallel to the AB line, and locate J. This line indicates the highest point on the shoulder and the straight of the material.
IK From I draw a line down 1/2" on the IJ line, and locate K.
FG From E on the EA line measure 2", and locate G.
GH From G measure upward 3/4" towards C, and locate H. AKHE Connect A and K, and H and E by a curved line. This forms the top or upper part of the sleeve. AF Measure down on the AB line 13 1/2", and locate F. This point indicates the elbow of the sleeve. FO From F draw a line parallel to the AC line, and locate 0. CL From C on the CD line measure down
11 1/2", or one-half of CD, and locate L. LD From L measure over 1", and locate D. DFO Connect D with F by straight lines.
DFO represents the pleat at the elbow of the sleeve. DR From 1) on the DB line draw a line l 1/2", and locate R. EDO Connect EDO by a curved line. Use the curve marked "sleeve curve" of the chart.
Then draw a straight line connecting O and R. RS Measure upward from R 3/4", and locate S.
This will shorten the inside seam of the sleeve. The dotted lines near N indicate the pleats to fit the sleeve to the cuff. (See
Fig. 63.) SB Connect S and B by a curved line. If a cuff is desired, deduct the width of the cuff from the sleeve (for example, 3" long on the BA line), and locate N. SM From S draw a line 3" long on the SOE line, and locate M. This will form the cuff and will be deducted from the sleeve.
Cutting the Pattern
1. Cut along the AKHE line.
2. Cut the inside seam, EDOS.
3. Cut along the RB line, and if a cuff is desired, cut along the NM line.
Drafting the Collar
1. Paste the shoulder seam NQ of the back of the pattern on the shoulder seam WV of the front. (See Fig. 64.)
2. Take a piece of paper 22" long and 12" wide, fold it through the center lengthwise, and mark the corners A, B, C, D.
3. Place the paper with the folded edge toward the left hand.
4. Take the pattern where the back and the front are pasted together and place it with the center back over the folded edge of the collar pattern. Place the line marked "bust line" on the lower cut edge of the folded paper. Pin the paper and the middy pattern together securely. IX From I measure 6" on the bust line, and locate X.
Fig. 64. - Draft of CoLLAR fob Middy Blouse
O Raise the neck line, E, 3/4", and locate O.
OU Connect O and U by a curved line.
K Measure 8" from the front neck on the TH line, and locate K. This indicates the open-at the front.
KTU Turn the point KTU over on to the pattern and crease this turn well. The crease UK indicates the opening in the front, and the point T turned over will form the revere for the under part of the collar.
AZ From A on the AC line, measure 2 l/2", and locate Z.
ZU Connect Z and U by a straight line. This line indicates the inner edge of the collar. Take a tracing wheel and trace along the OUZ line and then along the curved UT2 line. This curved line indicates the seam for the under part of the collar.
Catting Out the Collar Pattern (See Fig. 65).
1. Take off the middy pattern.
2. Cut out the neck line by following the tracing OU and continue the straight line from U to L.
3. Unfold the pattern at the center, and cut through the middle from B to O.
4. On one piece, cut through the traced line OUT2. This will give one-half of the pattern for the lower part of the collar. Mark BO "center fold."
Fig. 65. - Cutting of Upper and Lower Parts of the Collar
5. Cut the remaining long piece along the line OUL. This is the upper part of the collar. Mark OB on this piece "center fold."
Fig. 66. - Pattern of Middy Placed on Material 44" Wide
Fig. 66B. - Pattern of Middy Placed on Material 36" Wide A full garment can be made from 2 yds. of material