Folding the Material for Cutting (See Figs. 66A, 66B).

1. Take Indian head (44" wide) and cut off one length of 25" or 26".

Cutting-Out-the-Pattern-75

Fig. 67. - Middy Blouse Partly Finished

A, Lower part of collar stitched to middy: B, top part of collar stitched to lower collar; C, stitching 1/8" from the edge near the slit; D, the edges which extend from the upper part of the collar are joined in a plain seam; E, the edge is turned and the sides and bottom of the collar are stitched; F, pleat pinned near wrist; G, cuff partly stitched to sleeve.

2. On the selvage edge turn back 10". Crease it carefully.

3.  Place the center back of the paper pattern on the fold of the material. At the neck, let 1/2" of the material extend beyond the pattern.

4.  Take the other selvage and fold it to meet the first selvage. This will give a fold 12" wide.

5.  Take the pattern marked "center front" and place it on the new fold. Let 1/2" of the material extend beyond the pattern for the seam at the neck.

6.  Pin the parts of the pattern to the material carefully.

Tracing, Cutting, and Pressing the Seams

1.  Allow for a 3/8" seam all around the neck, shoulder, and armseye.

2.  Cut out the goods.

3.  Separate the front from the back by cutting along the selvage.

4.  Do not unpin the pattern.

Creasing and Pressing the Seams (See Fig. 74.)

Do not remove the pattern from the material until all the seams are carefully turned back over the pattern and pressed back. To do this:

1.  See that the pattern is pinned very securely to the material.

2.  Turn over, all around the paper pattern, one layer only, of the material. Turn this around the neck, shoulder seam, armseye and the waistline.

3.  Crease the turn well exactly over the edge. Crease it first by hand and then press it with a hot iron.

4.  Now turn the middy wrong side out and crease the extending seam over so that it is exactly even with the first turned edge.

Making

1.  Take the front piece of the blouse and lay it flat on the table with the right side up and shoulder seams extending.

2.  Take the back, lay the pressed shoulder seam so as to cover the pressed line of the front shoulder seam.

3.  Be.sure that the points NV at the neck and the points QW near the armseye meet exactly.

4.  Put pins at right angles to the seam, one near the shoulder seam, one near the neck, one in the middle. Pin each shoulder seam and then, without basting, stitch very close to the turned edge.

5.  Turn the waist inside out and make a 1/4" flat fell seam.

Cutting Out the Top Part of the Collar and the Sleeves

1. Cut off one 22" length of the 44" Indian head.

2.  Measure along the width 12" and pull a thread. Cut this piece off. This will give the piece for the upper part of the collar.

3.  Cut two paper sleeve patterns and place these so that they dove-tail each other. (See Fig. 66 B.) If this precaution is taken two sleeves may be cut without piecing.

4.  Cut out the sleeves.

5.  Around the upper part of each sleeve crease a 3/4" turn and press this well.

6.  Mark the center of each sleeve at the top and the bottom with a contrasting thread or a pin.

Putting in the Sleeve

The waist is stitched to the sleeve with a flat fell seam of the same width as the shoulder seam.

1. Fold the middy with the edges of the underarm seam together and put a pin at the upper part of the shoulder. This point comes, ordinarily, 3/4" from the shoulder seam towards the front.

2.   Lay the sleeve flat on the table with the marked upper edge towards you.

3.   Be sure that the armseye is well pressed and lay the right side of the middy with the pin at the center shoulder to the pin at the center of the sleeve.

4.   At this point, pin the middy and the sleeves together.

5.   Take the armseye of the middy in your hand. Start from the pin at the center and pin from the right to the left. Lay the middy over the sleeve so that the seam of the middy covers the crease pressed in the sleeve.

6.  As you follow the line of the sleeve stretch the middy a little. Put pins about 2" apart at right angles with the seam.

7.  When one side is pinned start again from the center point and repeat the process.

8.  Pin the two sleeves; then, without basting, stitch very close to the edge for the shoulder seam.

9.   Turn the middy inside out and make a 1/4" flat fell seam.

10.   On account of the great curve of this seam, it is advisable to baste it.

11.  Make a second stitching on this seam. Inexperienced stitchers will find it easier to get an even seam if they put the second stitching on the right side.

Adjusting the Sleeve to the Cuff

The fullness of the sleeve at the wrist may be shirred in or pleated to fit the cuff. For beginners it is easier to shirr the fullness at the wrist. To do this:

Cutting-Out-the-Top-Part-of-the-Collar-and-the-Sle-76

Fig. 68. - Fitting Under Arm and Side Seam of Middy

A, Sleeve, under arm, and side seam pinned for fitting; B, collar ready for outside stitching

1.  Put a coarser thread than previously used - a No. 50 - on the machine.

2.  Make the stitch as long as possible.

3.  Make a loose lower or upper tension.

4.  Make two rows of stitching close to the end of the sleeve.

5.  Find the middle of the sleeve and put a pin at that point.

6.  Draw up the loose threads in each row of stitching to the size of the cuff which will be 9" or 10".

7.  For the method of pleating the fullness of the sleeve, see Fig. 63 MN.