Cuff

The cuff on this middy will be closed and, therefore, must be large enough to slip over the hand. (See Figs. 67 F, 67 G.)

Cut the cuff 10" by 6" and pin it to the sleeve. Do not stitch it until the waist has been fitted and the length of the sleeve and the size of the cuff is decided.

Fitting

It is advisable to fit the middy after the shoulder seams are finished and the sleeves are stitched to the blouse. This is done in order to decide on the depth of the seam that can he taken in from the sleeves and the underarm seam. (See Fig. 68 A.)

1. Pin the sleeve seams together. Begin from the seam at the sleeve and pin towards the wrist.

2.  Pin the underarm seam together.

3.  Start again from the underarm seam and pin towards the hem.

When both sides are pinned then try the middy on, adjust it well around the neck and shoulders and decide on the width of the cuff and the size of the hem at the bottom.

Cutting Out the Lower Collar and the Cuff

1.  Cut off one length of 12" of the 44" Indian head.

2.  Cut off one width of 12" and pull a thread. This will give the piece for the lower part of the collar.

3.  Cut off two pieces 6" by 10". This will give the pieces for the two cuffs. A piece 18" by 12" will be left.

Cutting Out the Lining for the Collar

1.  Take the piece of material 12" by 12" cut out for the lower collar, and fold it lengthwise through the center.

2.  Place the pattern with the words "center front" on the folded edge of the material and trace all along the neck line with a tracing wheel. Trace firmly so that the seam is very distinct on both sides.

3.  Cut out the neck. Leave only 1/4" seam around the traced neck line.

4. Mark the center fold with a contrasting thread.

Cutting Out the Upper Part of the Collar

1.  Take the piece of material 22" long and 12" wide which was cut off the piece from the sleeve.

2.  Fold this through the center lengthwise and crease this fold well.

3.  Place the upper collar pattern marked "center fold" on the fold and on the lower edge of the material.

4.  Pin the pattern securely to the material and trace firmly along the neck and the front line.

5.  Cut out the collar. Leave only a 1/4" seam along the traced line.

Sewing the Lining of the Collar to the Middy

1.  See that the edges of the collar are perfectly straight.

2.  See that the neck line of the collar is well and evenly traced. Mark the center back with a contrasting thread.

3.  Leave only 1/4" seam around the neck of the middy and around the collar.

4.  Pin the center back and the right side of the blouse to the center back and the right side of the collar.

5.  Starting from the center back toward the left side pin the collar to the middy, (a) See that the tracing line of collar and the middy meet exactly, (b) Be sure that the front edges of the collar and middy are perfectly even.

6.  When the left side is pinned, start from the center toward the right side and pin the collar and the middy together in as on the left side.

7.  Stitch the collar to the middy with a plain seam.

8.  Press the seam open with the thumb and forefinger.

9.  On each side of the seam stitch the raw edges down very close to the stitching line.

10. Trim off the raw edges close to the stitching line. (See Fig. 67 A.)

Sewing on the Top Part of the Collar (See Fig. 67).

1.  See that the edges are very even. It is advisable to pull a thread on each edge to be sure that the lines are perfectly straight.

2.  Put the center of the right side of the upper part of the collar on the center of the right side of the lining of the collar. See that the tracing around the neck of the top and the lining of the collar meet.

3.  Pin the lining to the upper part of the collar. Put pins along the center of the top part of the collar from the neck to the outer edge.

4.  Next pin the lower edges together. Start from the center and pin each side together.

5.  Pin one side of the lining to the upper part of the collar. Start at the corner of the collar and pin the collar to the middy. Put pins at right angles to the edge until the end of the slit is reached.

6.  Do the same thing at the other side of the collar.

7.  See that the warp and woof of the collar run in the same direction and that the upper as well as the lower side is perfectly smooth.

8.  Start at the end of the slit and stitch 1/8" from the slit and then 1/4" from the edge all around the collar until opposite the starting point. Leave as small a seam as possible near the slit, just enough so that the material will not fray. A deep seam will make the middy pucker.

9.  Stitch the ends which extend from the side of the collar with a plain seam. Crease the seam well. Press very flat between the thumb and forefinger.

10. Open the seam all around the collar and crease it well.

11.  Turn the collar inside out. Crease the seam around the collar again as flat as possible and make square corners. If possible, press the collar with a hot iron.

12.  Next stitch the collar all around on the right side. Begin from the end of the slit and stitch all around to the opposite starting point. Stitch very close to the edge.

Finishing the Collar on the Inside

1.  Turn the middy inside out.

2.  Pin the curve of the lining of the collar and the curve of the upper part of the collar together.

3.  Turn the raw edges under and stitch the collar to the middy, from shoulder seam to shoulder seam only.

4.  All around the side edges and the bottom of the collar turn the raw edges under and stitch close to the turned edge. Stitch the collar only. Do not stitch it to the middy.

Putting on the Cuff

1.  The width of the cuff depends on the length of the sleeve. Ordinarily the width varies from 2" to 3" when finished.

2.  For a closed cuff the size of the cuff depends upon the size of the hand. The cuff should slip over the hand easily when the seams are made. An average measure for a finished cuff is 2 1/2" by 9".

3. Draw up the shirring thread of the sleeve to fit the cuff and sew the cuff by following the instructions given for putting on the band on the sewing apron.

Stitching the Sleeve Seam and the Underarm Seam

1.  See that the edges of the seams of the armseye meet.

2.  See that the cuff is even in length and that the top edges meet.

3.  Stitch the sleeve and underarm seam. Make a 1/2" seam.

4.  Open the seam and crease it well. Cut off the raw edges and fell the back part of the middy over the front part. The width of the seam should match the armseye seam and the shoulder seam.

Putting on the Pocket

1.  Prepare a pocket 3" by 4" and cut it to a point at the bottom.

2.  Measure approximately 3" from the arms-eye and 6" from the shoulder seam and stitch the pocket to the middy according to the directions given for stitching the pockets to the apron.

3. For method of making a set-in pocket, see Fig. 69.

Putting-on-the-Pocket-77

Fig. 69. - Pocket Opening Bound with Bias Strips

A, Bias pieces basted and stitched; B, bias piece pulled through slit; C, bias piece finished with arrow head

Eyelet

1. Measure up from the end of the slit 1/2". Measure over 1/2" and make a dot. This indicates the place for the first eyelet.

2. Measure up 1 1/2". This indicates the place for the second eyelet.

3. Mark the third and last eyelet 1 1/2" from the second one.

Putting-on-the-Pocket-78

Fig. 70. - Eyelets

A, Eyelet made with the overhand stitch; B, eyelet made with the blanket stitch

4. Mark the eyelets on the opposite side in the same way. For making the eyelets, see Fig. 70.

Teacher's Directions To Pupil

1.  Draft the pattern.

2.  Place the pattern on the material.

3.  Cut out the middy.

4.  Stitch the two shoulder seams.

5.  Stitch the middy to the sleeves.

6.   Sew on the lower part of the collar.

7.   Sew on the upper part of the collar.

8.  Pin the underarm seams of middy and sleeve together.

9.  Prepare the cuff.

10.   Gather the sleeve.

11.  Pin the cuff to the sleeve.

12.  Try on the middy and adjust the width around the bust and the hips, adjust the length of the sleeves, and decide on the width of the hem.

13.   Stitch the cuff to the sleeve.

14.  Make underarm and side seam.

15.   Hem the bottom.

16.   Prepare and pin on the pocket.

17.  Make the eyelets.

18.  Press the garment.

19.   Compute the cost and compare the middy with a ready-made one.

20.   Figure out the time.

Questions

1.  What are the required measurements for a middy ?

2.  How are these obtained?

3.  How was the pattern drafted?

4.  Name suitable materials that may be used for a middy.

5.   How is the pattern placed on the material?

6.  Name the short cuts that may be used in the making of the middy.

7.  What is characteristic of a well-fitting middy?