Cutting Out The Paper Pattern

1.  Cut out along the waistline EGL.

2.  Cut along the center back LJ.

3.  Cut the bottom line JIOK.

4.  Divide the pattern on the line OG.

Required Material

Two side lengths plus 7" for each length of 36" material are sufficient for this skirt. These additional inches allow 3" for a hem and 2" for a high waistline. For instance, if the hip length measures 32", there should be added 3" for a hem and 2" for a high waist, or a total length of 37" or 2 yards and 2" of 36" material will be needed to make a skirt and a belt as shown in Fig. 52.

In addition, 7/8 of a yard of belting, 2 white hooks and eyes No. 2, 2 snaps No. 1, 3 yards of white bias binding (if the hem is finished with a binding), 1 spool No. 70 white thread for machine stitching, 1 spool No. 40 white thread for sewing on the hooks and eyes, No. 6 "between" needles, tapeline. Make a gauge with 3", 2" and 1" plainly marked upon it. (See Fig. 55.)

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Fig. 55. - Making a Gauge

Preparing the Material for Putting on the Pattern 1. See that the material is perfectly smooth. If necessary, press it with a hot iron so that it lies perfectly flat.

2.  If there are just two lengths fold them with the right side and the selvages together.

3.  Be sure to place the cut edges together at the bottom and make the selvages meet.

4.  Pin the selvages together. Put the pins at right angles.

Placing the Pattern on the Material

No seams are allowed on this pattern. See Fig. 52.

1.  Take the front pattern marked "center front, straight of the material" and place it on the material 3" from the cut edge at the bottom and 2" from the selvage at the front. Use the gauge where 3", 2" and 1" are marked upon it.

2.  Place the back gore with the words " center back, straight of the material" 4" from the other selvage edge. The widest part of this gore should be 3", or the width of the hem, from the folded edge of the cloth. Pin this pattern to the cloth securely and evenly.

Cutting Out the Skirt

1.  Cut straight along the edge of the pattern marked "center back." A double strip of 3 1/2" will be left. Use this for a belt.

2.  With the gauge, measure 1" from each edge of the paper pattern marked "bias."

Connect these two points by a line drawn with a ruler.

3. Cut out each gore on these lines. Do not remove the pattern from the cloth.

Outlining and Pressing the Seams in the Skirts

1.  Take the front gore and crease one layer of the goods very carefully over every edge of the pattern around the waist, the front, the bottom, and the side seam.

2.  After creasing the edges carefully, press them with a hot iron. In this manner every seam and stitching line will be marked. (See Fig. 74 for method of creasing the material over the pattern.)

3.  Now turn the pattern to the opposite side and on this side turn over the extending edge so as to meet the other turned edge very accurately. Press this firmly with a hot iron.

4.  Take the back gore and crease and press the bottom side seam and waist. Crease and press one side and then, turning the gore on the opposite side, crease and press this.

Putting the Skirt Together

1.  Remove the back pattern and lay one gore flat on the table with the right side up and unfolded bias seam towards the sewer.

2.  Remove the pattern from the front gores.

Take one front piece with the right side up, lay the pressed side seam directly over the pressed seam of the back gore.

3.  Put a pin at the waistline. Be sure that the waistline is even. Then put a pin at the crease marked for the hem at the bottom. Also be sure that the connecting points meet on a straight line. Next put several pins carefully along the side seam. Make sure that the lines and connecting points meet accurately.

4.  Take the gores from the left side and repeat the process.

Stitching the Skirt

I.    Side Seams

1.  When the two sides are pinned together, carefully stitch the side seam on the right side. Use the presser foot as a guide and stitch very close to the edge.

2.  Join the two back gores either with a French seam or a French fell.

II.    Front

1.  On the right side front gore, from the crease which has been pressed to allow for 2" and which indicates the center front, turn over 1" all along the selvage on the wrong side, and press this well. This turn will form the front pleat. (See Fig. 56 C.)

2.  Now take the two front gores and lay the right side over the left side so that the two creases which indicate the "center front" are directly opposite each other.

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Fig. 5G. - Detail of Front Closing of Skirt

A, Skirt turned over the belt; B, skirt finished with bias binding; C, front pleat stitched back 1"; D, placket facing made by folding over the extended piece; E, method of sewing on fastenings.

3. Pin the two together. Begin near the bottom at the pressed seam line.

4.  Pin these seams together. Leave about 12" from the front for the front opening. (See Fig. 56 C, D.)

5.  Be sure that the selvage edge of the extended front pleat comes a little under the line so that the stitching will catch the turned edge.

6.  Stitch the two fronts together on the marked center front line near the 12" allowed for the opening, break the thread in the bobbin or shuttle, slip the one side away from the presser foot, and continue to stitch the remainder of the front. (This avoids the breaking of the upper thread.)

7.  Shirr by machine 2 gathering threads around the marked waistline. To do this:

(a)   Adjust to the longest stitch the machine will allow.

(b)   Use a coarse cotton on the machine as a fine thread will break too easily in drawing it up.

(c) Loosen either the upper or the lower tension. III. Hem

Pin up the hem all around the pressed line. Put pins about 2" from the edge and about 5" or 6" apart.