This section is from the "Hand Sewing Lessons" book, by Sarah Ewell Krolik. Also available from Amazon: Hand Sewing Lessons: A Graded Course For Schools And For The Home.
The pattern is reduced to one-quarter of the correct size. The measurements are in inches. Take them as follows and write them in a note book under name of child.
Neck, ii. Skirt length, 18 in back, 17
Bust, measured loosely, 28. in front.
Waist, measured loosely, 26. Length of sleeve, under side,
Under arm, 7. 15, upper side, 18 or 20,
, Length of back, 13. according to length of
Length of front, 13. shoulder seam.
Length of shoulder, 6. Wrist band, 8.
No allowance is made on waist pattern for seams or to lap in the back. Two more inches of the bust measure is allowed for the front than for the back, 15 front and 13 back equal 28 bust measure.
The waist line measures 16 in front - one more than at the bust line. 16 front and 10 back equal 26. An inch is added for fullness. If to be gathered into a band and more fullness is required, cut a plain waist pattern, put the point B on the edge of the fold and carry L back to give the fullness required, but do not enlarge the pattern at the under arm seams for that purpose.
Use strong Manila paper for patterns. From these other sizes can be easily cut by applying the measurements.
Measurements for Front of Waist.
Measure from the left hand corner 21/2 inches along the front edge, dot and mark A-B. Measure 1 1/2 inches along the left edge from A, dot and mark C. Measure 2 inches diagonally from A to D for the curve of the neck, and draw the curved line C-D-B. Fold a circle of paper into twenty-four sections, and use one as a guide to slope the shoulder. Lay it along the left edge with the point at C and draw the 6 inch line C-E. (This slope is also obtained by drawing fifteen degrees of a circle. Begin 2 inches from the neck, to curve this line upward so as to add 1/4 inch on each side of the front to the neck size.
Illustration 45. Pattern of plain waist drafted for eight year old child.
Measure from B to the point crossed by the bust line and mark it F. (B-F measures 4 inches.) Measure from F at right angles to the front, a 71/2 inch line to G. Begin at the front 11/2 inches above this and draw a 6 inch line, H - I. Curve the line from E to I slightly and make a deep curve from I to G.
Draw a 7 inch line from G to J parallel to the front. Measure 1/2 inch to the right from J to K and draw a slanting line from G to K for the under arm seam.
Measurements for Back of Waist
Draw a 13 inch line for opening at the back, and mark it A - B. Measure 13/4 inches at right angles to A - B from A to C. Draw a curved line from C to D, taking off 1/2 inch of A - B. Fold a circle of paper into twelve sections and use one for the slope of the shoulder. Lay it along the left edge with the point at C and draw the 6 inch line, C-G. Measure 6 inches from B to E and draw a 61/2 inch line from E to F, at right angles to A - B. Draw a 6 inch line one inch above E - F, beginning on the line A - B, and mark it H- I. Draw a curved line through G - H - F for the back of the arm-size. Draw the 7 inch line F - J, parallel to E-B, also the line J - B. Measure 1 inch from J toward B and mark K. Draw the line F - K for the under arm seam. This pattern will lap slightly at the back on a straight figure.
Directions for Cutting Sleeve
Apply arm measurements to a pattern of the required style, to get the different sizes. For a close fitting sleeve, take measurements around the arm, above and below the elbow and near the shoulder; also the length each way from the elbow. Cut the under side 2/5 the width of the upper, curve the top of the under arm piece slightly and round the upper side according to the length of the shoulder, cutting both so that the back seam is 21/2 inches longer than the front seam (of the sleeve) at the top and a half inch longer at the bottom. The front seam curves from top to wrist, one inch toward the sleeve; the back seam slopes from the elbow to the wrist enough to give the right size for the hand.
The front arm seam is joined to the front of the arm-size half way between I and G. The sleeve should be carefully hung and the arm-size enlarged (if necessary) below the mark I, and as little under the arm as possible.
Directions for Cutting Doll's Dress.
Fold cloth at d for sleeve; at c for front of skirt. Join a and b. Allow on skirt and sleeve for length and fullness. Add two inches to width of skirt for reversed box pleat under the arm, to be left loose below the arm size or stitched together one inch.
Illustration 46. Pattern for doll's dress.
Illustration 47. Bead and cross-stitch patterns. (a) and (b) Sofa pillow covers.