This section is from the "Hand Sewing Lessons" book, by Sarah Ewell Krolik. Also available from Amazon: Hand Sewing Lessons: A Graded Course For Schools And For The Home.
Cashmere, 4x5 inches.
Slip-stitch or Blind Hem. Fold, baste, and take up as little of the cloth with the needle as possible, pass a long stitch inside the fold, and begin the next where the last one ends.
PURL Edge. Make a line of running stitches, fasten the thread at the left, take the stitches closely together over the line and at right angles to it, and carry the thread from the last stitch under the needle. (See Illustration 34. No. 6.) Baste on oilcloth while working the edge.
Make a bias and a right angle tear in the cashmere. Draw a thread from the warp of the goods, wax the end to make it thread easily, darn in fine stitches parallel with the woof, then with the warp, weaving the thread at the back of the cloth so as to show as little as possible on the front side.
Finish the sides with purl edge in floss. Slip-stitch a 1/4 inch hem at the ends.
A hair is used for very fine darning. Thread the needle with the end drawn from the head.