Overseaming is sometimes called overhanding or top sewing, and it gets its name from the manner of making it.

In sewing, hold the muslin between the thumb and the first finger of the left hand.

Never sew this seam with the material over the first finger, as it causes the side towards you to pucker.

In making the stitch, take up as little of the muslin as possible; depend on the closeness rather than on the depth of the stitch for strength.

Materials. - The materials required are: A practice piece of muslin; "ground downs" or "between" needles; scissors; cotton (red) ; a ruler or tape measure.

1.   Measure one and a half inches from the last seam and cut the muslin. (All seams to be made one and a half inches apart.)

2.   Make a turn one-fourth of an inch on the wrong side of each piece.

3.   Place the material together with the right side of each piece out so that the edges and ends are exactly even.

4.   Baste close to the edge with even basting.

5.  Do not use a knot.

6.   Sew from right to left.

7.   In beginning the seam, point the needle towards you, taking it through the edge of the muslin nearest you; leave

IV-Overseaming-16

ILL. 15. - Proper Position of the Work in Overseaming.

an end of the thread, and leave this end on the top of the seam.

8.   Sew over it (through both edges) for about a half inch; trim off the end of the thread and continue sewing the seam. See Illustration No. 15.

9.   In joining or mending the thread, leave half an inch of the old thread.

10.   If the thread breaks short, open a few stitches.

11.  With the point of the needle draw the thread out of the edge nearest you.

12.   Put the newly threaded needle through the hole where the old thread came out.

13.  Leave a half inch of the new thread (no knot) to be sewed down with the old one.

14.  Finish the seam by sewing back on the last three stitches.

15.   Take out the bastings and rub the seam with the thumb nail until it is perfectly flat.

16.   If the seam is a long one, especially if it is made on selvage edges, great care is necessary to prevent it from puckering. This may be avoided by beginning at the centre and sewing towards each end.

Practical work. - Iron holders, pillow cases, pin cushions, bibs, and oversleeves may be made by using this seam.

Mistakes Likely to be Made in Overseaming.

1.   Edges turned unevenly.

2.   Seam puckered.

3.  Beginning and ending insecure.

4.   Stitches too deep or too far apart.

5.  Seam not flattened out.