Bias material is often preferred in facing a straight edge because it makes a smoother lining than a straight strip of cloth. Ruffles are frequently cut on the bias.
When several bias strips are required, they can be easily and accurately cut by first folding and cutting the material once on a true bias (that is, on a true diagonal line) ; then by making a paper measurement the width of the strips desired and dotting the material with chalk or pencil as it is measured. Cut by the dots.
A garment cut with bias seams is generally spoken of as being gored. The object in goring any garment is to reduce the weight by taking out all unnecessary material, or to improve the appearance by decreasing the fullness at the hips and waist, and increasing it at the bottom. In many cases it is an economical way of cutting.
1. Fold the material so that the selvage or warp threads
are on a line with one of the woof threads. See Illustration No. 42.
2. Crease the fold. Open it out with the inside of the crease up.
3. Cut on the crease.
ILL. 41. - Material Cut on a Bias, Such as would be Required in Underclothing.
ILL. 42. -Material Folded for Bias Cutting.
To Cut a Bias Strip.
1. Make a paper measurement the width of the strips wanted.
2. Measure down from the cut edge the distance required for the strip and dot at every four inches.
3. Continue measuring and dotting row after row until a sufficient number of strips have been measured off.
4. Cut on the line of dots. Or you may measure each end and mark it by drawing a chalked line across.
ILL. 43. - Bias Strips in Position before Joining.
1. With the wrong side up, place the strips on the desk in the proper position for sewing. See Illustration No 43.
2. Place the pieces marked A and B with the wrong side of each piece out, the edges and ends that are to meet, even.
3. Move the edge of the upper piece until it corresponds in position with Illustration No. 44.
4. Hold the edges firmly; baste across from A to B with even basting.
5. Open out the work on the desk and see if it is properly placed together.
6. Sew with a backstitch.
7. Press open the seam and cut off the corners that extend.
8. Join the next piece in a similar manner.