Harmonious line is by no means all that is necessary in order to have an attractive dress. Good proportion or good spacing as it is sometimes called is equally important with good line. In Fig. 70 there are two pictures of the same dress, showing different proportions between skirt and waist. In the first picture the belt is placed so that the skirt and waist are equal in proportion. Note how much more interesting the proportion is in the second dress where the division of spaces is unequal.

Fig. 69.

SQUARE FACE.

ROUND FACE.

LONG-THIN-FACE.

Compare the length of sleeve in the two dresses. The sleeve that divides the arm exactly in half from the elbow to shoulder makes an ugly length because it is not well spaced. In the other dress the sleeve comes just above the elbow, which is better proportion in relation to the arm. Can you recall another length sleeve that is equally as bad as that in the first picture of Fig. 70?

Give another example of a sleeve that is a good length.

Good Spacing in Collars. - Good proportion in widths of collars is a particularly important thing in planning the proportions of a dress. Fig. 7 1 shows the same style of collar -planned in two different widths. In the first picture the collar covers just one-half of the shoulder. Why is the arrangement of spaces in the other picture more interesting?

Fig. 70.

Fig. 71.

Something to Do. - 1. After reading these paragraphs and studying the pictures you should be able to make a rule for good spacing. Have a class discussion to decide upon this rule.

2. Find a picture in a fashion book showing good proportion of parts. Either trace it or cut it out and then mount it. Write an explanation as to why you think it has good proportion.

3. Have a class criticism of the proportion in the clothing worn by you and your classmates. Remember that criticism means picking out good points as well as bad points. Proportion of the Human Figure. - The proportions of the normal human figure are as beautiful as its lines. For example, the waist line does not divide the figure exactly in half from top to bottom. The elbow does not divide the arm exactly in half. Since the proportions of the natural human figure are good, the clothing should emphasize these natural proportions. The first picture in Fig. 72 shows a dress in which the sleeves and shoulders are quite unnatural in proportion. Can you see how the other costume distorts the natural proportions of the human figure?

Fig. 72.

Hats as well as dresses should conform to the natural proportions of the human figure. A hat which exaggerates the size of the head makes the figure look top heavy and overbalanced. A very small hat perched on top of the head looks ridiculous because it is out of proportion to the head and to the rest of the figure. How do present fashions take into account the natural proportions of the human figure? Have you any old photographs at home which show hats or dresses that are out of proportion to the figure? Which hat in Fig. 73 is in good proportion to the figure?

Fig. 73.

Combining Materials in Good Proportion. - Another problem in proportion which often occurs is when two materials are combined in the same dress. The rule which you made for good spacing should tell you that equal division of spaces is uninteresting and should be avoided. According to this rule do you think the dress in Fig. 74 has good spacing?

Planning the width of a hem or the width of a belt are also problems in proportion. Can you think of still other terns in good spacing?