2. The armhole should be properly adjusted as to size. If it is too large it can be taken up at the underarm seam or the shoulder seam as the case requires. If it is too small it can be made larger by letting out the seams or by trimmingoff the material. Particular care must be taken in trimming out the armhole not to make the front or back too narrow.

3. The width of the front and back should be properly fitted. Picture 1 in Fig. 98 shows a back that is correct. The line of the armhole seam makes a good line over the top of the shoulder. Picture 2 shows a back that is too wide - the seams drop down on the arm. In Picture 3 the back is too narrow because the armhole was trimmed out too much. There should be a good curve from the front over the shoulder to the back. 4. If it is too low in the neck it can be remedied by taking deeper seams on the shoulder. If it is too low in the back how can it be remedied without changing the front? Select a partner who will help you fit your dress. You should plan your work so that there is as little trying on as possible, and yet be sure that it is right. Plan to fit as many things as possible each time you put on your dress.

Fig. 97.

Making A Dress 207

Fig. 98.

Making A Dress 208Making A Dress 209Making A Dress 210

Preparing the Neckline for the Collar. - Before the collar is put on it is necessary to have the neckline cut exactly right. This is often done at the second fitting after the seams are stitched. See that the garment hangs properly from the shoulders without pulling away from the back of the neck. Notice the line of the neck, and if it does not seem right put in pins that will be a guide for trimming. Trim after the garment has been removed. Pin the two shoulder seams together so as to cut both halves exactly alike. Remember to leave a seam allowance. as shown in Fig. 99, and then turn the collar to the right side.

Making the Collar. - The collar may be of single or double thickness of material. The edge of the collar made from a single thickness can be finished in various ways. It may have a bias facing such as was used for the neck of the nightgown, or it may have a bias binding such as was used for the front opening of the kimono. In what other ways could it be finished? The double collar is made by placing the two right sides together and sewing around the edge with a plain seam. Trim the seam, 12

Fig. 99.

Making A Dress 211

Crease sharply around the line of stitching and the collar is ready to be applied.

Putting on the Collar. - There are different ways of putting on collars, but it will be advisable to use the simplest which is with a bias facing. Place the collar to the neck of the dress, matching the center backs. Be sure that the ends of the collar measure the same distance from the shoulder seams. Can you tell from looking at Fig. 100 which side of the collar is placed to the right side of the dress? Baste the collar to the dress and before stitching baste the bias strip around the seam, as shown in Fig. 100. One stitching will hold the bias facing, the collar and the dress together. The bias facing is turned to the inside of the dress and sewed flat, just as with other facings. Special care should be taken to fold the facing sharply on the line of stitching. After it has been turned it is well to baste near the line of stitching so as to hold the facing in place. Hem by hand or stitch on the machine.

Neck Opening. - Some dresses have large enough neck openings so that they can be slipped over the head. Other dresses must have an additional opening because the neck is small. A slit is made down the front, the back or at the shoulders. The simplest way of making such an opening is to finish the slit with a bias binding, as shown in Fig. 101. Putting on this bias binding is very much like putting on the continuous placket. If you study the pictures in Fig. 54 and review the making of the placket you should be able to find out for yourself how to finish this opening. You will find that there are three points of difference. First, the binding is cut on the bias, so that it will fit smoothly around the curve at the bottom of the opening. Second, it is cut narrow and does not fold back like the placket. Third, it is finished by hand on the wrong side of the garment. How will this change the first step in putting on the binding? Directions are given below for hemming the binding by hand.

Fig. 100.

Making A Dress 212

Fig. 101.

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Plain Hemming. - 1. Hold the work over the first finger of the left hand as shown in Fig. 102.

2. Take tiny, slanting stitches through the cloth and through the folds of the hem. The picture shows the direction in which the needle should slant.

3. The great difficulties in doing the hemming stitch are to make the stitches small and even and to make them all slant in the same direction. Criticize your own work for these three things. With which one do you have the most difficulty? Inspection of Your Work. - Ask your neighbor to criticize your work according to the following questions. After this criticism ask your teacher for her help or approval. Learn to judge your own work before asking your teacher if it is all right.

1. Is the collar put on straight?

2. Is it put on without puckering?

3. Is the bias facing turned back sharply on the line of stitching?

4. Is it hemmed or stitched down neatly?