Fig. 19.

What You Can Make From The Kimono Pattern 45What You Can Make From The Kimono Pattern 46

Ordering Your Material. - Each girl should decide what material it will be best for her to buy. Remember when you buy material:

1. This is a beginning problem and it would not be wise for you to buy expensive cloth.

2. Select a material that is suitable for the garment that you are to make.

3. Select a material that is serviceable according to the tests given on pages 38 and 39. Each girl should write out on a piece of paper the information asked for below. This should be approved by your teacher before you buy your material.

Name......................

Garment ...................

Long or short sleeves........

Kind of material.............

Width .....................

Price per yard...............

Number of yards..........

Total cost .......

Testing and Altering Your Pattern. - If you are using a commercial pattern the first thing to do is to test it for size.

Fig. 20.

What You Can Make From The Kimono Pattern 47

Measure it from the top to the bottom to see if it is long enough, and across the chest to see if it is wide enough for you. It is also a good plan to decide on the length of the sleeve and test the pattern to see if it is correct. With your tape measure find the distance from the neck down over the shoulder to the bottom of the sleeve. Can you see where to lay your tape measure on the pattern in order to test this measurement?

If it is discovered that the pattern is too short when measurements for the length of the garment are taken, the. extra length can be allowed at each end. Care must be taken to keep the bottoms curved exactly like the pattern. If the pattern is too long it can be shortened by taking a plait in it about six inches from the bottom. See Fig. 20. It is better to take a plait than to cut off the bottom of the pattern because it makes the pattern narrower at the bottom when cut off.

Cutting the Garment. - In making your garment you will find it most helpful to work with a partner. It is easier for two people to help each other in handling patterns, taking measurements, and fitting the garment than to do it alone.

Study the directions which come with the pattern.

1. Are the seams allowed on the pattern?

2. What sign is used to tell you which edge of the pattern is to be placed on the lengthwise fold of the material?

3. What are the notches on the underarm seams for? When you are sure you understand the directions pin your pattern to your material. Fig. 19 which you have already studied will show you one way to place your pattern on your material. The diagram which comes with the printed directions on the pattern will also show you how to place the pattern on the material. Be sure you have your teacher's approval before you cut out your garment.

Criticism Helps You to Improve Your Work. - Skillful workmen are constantly trying to improve upon their own work. They are able to do this because they know how to criticize their own work and are willing to have it criticized by other people. At various places in this book you will find questions which will help you to criticize your work. For example, while you are working on the French seams turn to the questions called inspection of French seams on page 44.

1. Remember to have your work criticized before it is completely finished. This will help to avoid mistakes. It is easier to rip basting than stitching.

2. Ask your neighbor or your partner to criticize your work frequently.

3. Learn to criticize your own work.

4. Remember that criticism means picking out good points as well as bad points. Something to Think About. - A criticism of your conduct in the classroom may be as helpful as a criticism of the sewing that you do. This will help you to find out whether you are a worth-while member of the class, which is surely as important as doing good sewing. Answer the following questions in regard to yourself and decide in what ways you can improve your own conduct. Try to be an ideal member of your class.

1. Do you respect the rights of others Do you use the

2. Do you respect the property of others? Do you borrow things without asking permission? Do you remember to bring your own materials or do you always borrow from others?

3. Do you make unnecessary work for other people? Do you do everything that you can to keep the room in order? Are you late, making it necessary for someone to explain the work a second time?

4. How many of the above ideas are as important in your home as in the sewing class? In a store? Side Seams. - The side seams are to be finished with French seams because French seams leave no raw edges and if raw edges were left in these garments they would ravel out and not look neat. On the right side of the garment the French seam looks just the same as the plain seam but on the wrong side the appearance is different. The raw edges do not show. Examine your clothing to see if any of it is made with French seams. Before reading the directions for making the French seam study Fig. 21 and try to figure out for yourself how the seam is put together. The orange color shows the right side of the material. The directions for a French seam are as follows:

1. Pin the two sides of the garment together, thus making the first seam come on the right side.

2. Baste and try on before stitching to see if the garment fits.

3. Stitch and trim off the raw edges about one-eighth inch from the stitching, so they are even.

4. Turn the seams so the fold comes exactly on the line of stitching. If the cloth does not crease well baste close to the fold.