5. Baste about one-quarter inch from the fold. Stitch the seam as near the basting as possible.
Warning: If great care is not taken in trimming the edges, in making the fold, and in stitching, the raw edges will stick out on the right side and make a bad looking seam.
Inspection of French Seams. - Criticize your partner's work for the following points.
1. Is the stitching straight?
2. Is it turned exactly on first line of stitching?
3. Do you think the raw edges will show through on the right side when finished? When is the best time to think about this ?
4. Is the stitching so far from the edge that it makes the work look bulky? Neck Finish. - Before finishing the neck it is necessary to know whether the neck needs trimming out or not. Examine the neck lines on the garments which the girls in the class are wearing. Decide how low it will be best to cut the neck of your garment. Notice that a well cut neck line is always lower in the front than in the back or sides. Caution: Beware of cutting too much out of the neck. It is easy to trim it off a little at a time and impossible to add it on when too much is cut off. The garment should be tried on, taking great care not to stretch it around the neck. If the neck of the garment is too high, pins should be put in the proper place for cutting the neck line. Then the garment should be taken off and the neck very carefully trimmed. In order to get the two sides exactly alike, the two halves should be pinned together and trimmed at the same time. The proper length for the sleeves should be determined at the same time the neck is fitted.
Making the Bias Strip. - The neck of the kimono, nightgown or apron dress may be finished with a bias facing. This facing may vary in width from about three-eighths to one inch. If the facing is a narrow one it is better turned to the wrong side. The bias facing rather than a straight one is necessary because the bias will stretch around the curve of the neck. The bias strips can be either made from the material or bought already prepared. You can find out how to make bias strips by reading the following questions and studying the pictures in Fig. 22.
1. How is the material folded in order to get a bias?
2. Of what use is the diagonal crease, made by folding the material?
3. How should bias strips be placed when they are joined?
See Picture 3 in Fig. 22.
4. Why is the seam slanted instead of straight as shown in Picture 4 of Fig. 22? Putting on the Bias Strip. - It is a great saving of time to buy the bias strips already prepared. Whether the strips are made or bought already prepared they should be put on according to the following directions:
1. Baste the edge of the strip to the edge of the neck, keeping the two right sides together as shown in the first part of Fig. 23. The orange color shows the right side of the material.
2. Stitch and remove the bastings. 4
3. Turn directly on the seam, crease and baste close to the edge. Was there any step in making the French seam exactly like this?
4. Turn in the raw edge and baste as shown in the second part of Fig. 23.
5. Stitch and remove the bastings.
Sometimes the facing is made wide and of some contrasting colored material. In this case it is turned to the right side, so as to make a trimming. The process of putting it on is just the same, except that the two right sides are not put together in beginning the process. Instead, the right side of the facing is put to the wrong side of the garment and then turned to the right side. The facing should join in the middle of the back. Can you tell how to join it by examining Fig. 24? The first part of the diagram shows the facing before it has been turned. The second part of Fig. 24 shows how it looks when it is finished.
Neck Finish for Kimono. - Another way to finish the neck of the kimono is with a binding instead of with a facing. It may be made from the same or contrasting material. The binding stands up around the neck instead of lying down flat as the bias facing does.
A Problem for You to Do. - Find out how a binding is different from a facing. The questions below will help you to find out.