This pattern consists of five pieces: one-half of the front, one-half of the back, upper and under part of sleeve, and neck band.

Pattern Of The Front Of Tier, Having Chest Measure Of 29 In. And Length Measure Of 40 In. (Fig. 73).

Measurements:For the length of the tier, measure from the upper part of the shoulder to the lower edge of the dress skirt. For the chest measure, pass the tape over the chest, under the arms, and across the back. Allow the tape measure to lie smoothly over these parts and observe the number of inches.

1. Draw upon the blackboard an oblong 18 in. x 40 in., the shorter sides horizontal; and make the left vertical dotted, to represent the line where the cloth or paper is doubled.

2. From the upper left corner, measure vertically down 4 1/2 in. and mark the point A, for the lower part of the front neck. From the point

A, draw to the right a horizontal dotted line 7 1/4 in. and mark the right end D, for width of chest.

3. From the upper left corner, measure horizontally to the right 2 1/2 in.

for the upper part of the front neck, 8 in. and 10 in. for the length of shoulder and width of arm-size, marking the points respectively

B, X, and Y. Connect B and A by a line curving gradually to the right, for the curve of the neck.

4. From the point X draw downward a dotted vertical of 8 in. and mark the lower end E, for length of arm-size. On this line mark the point C 1 in. below X. Connect C and B by a straight line for the slope of the shoulder.

5. From Y draw downward a dotted vertical 7 1/2 in. and mark the lower end F, for the upper end of the under-arm seam. Beginning at

C, connect C, D, E, and F by a line which curves gradually to the left, for the arm-size.

Pattern For A Tier 81

Fig. 73.

6. From the lower right corner, measure upward 2 in. on the right vertical and mark the point G. Connect F and G by a straight line for the side seam.

7. From the lower left corner, measure horizontally to the right 5 in.

and mark the point H. Connect G and H by a straight line, to give the slope at the lower end of the side seam.

8. Copy on doubled paper and cut from A to B, C, D, E, F, G, and

H, leaving 1/2 in. outside the shoulders and side lines for seams.

Pattern Of The Back Of Tier (Fig. 74).

Pattern For A Tier 82

Fig. 74.

1. Draw upon the blackboard an oblong 18 in. X 39 in., the short sides horizontal, and the left vertical dotted, to represent the line where the cloth or paper is doubled.

2. From the upper right corner, measure horizontally to the left 2 in.; mark this point A. From A draw a vertical line to the lower edge of the oblong. This line gives the width of the hem for buttons and buttonholes at the back.

3. From the upper right corner, measure horizontally to the left 4 in.,

9 1/2 in., and 10 1/2 in., for the length of the shoulder seams, marking the points respectively B, X, and Y.

4. From X draw downward a dotted vertical line 4 in. and mark the lower end D, for the curve of the back arm-size. On this line mark the point C, 11/2 in. below X, for lower end of shoulder seam. Connect B and C by a straight line.

5. From the point Y draw downward a dotted vertical 6 1/2 in. and mark the lower end F. Connect C, D, and F for the curve of the arm-size by a line which curves slightly to the right.

6. From the lower left corner, measure upward 2 in. on the left vertical and mark the point G. Connect F and G by a straight line for the side seam.

7. From the lower right corner, measure horizontally to the left 4 in.

and mark the point H. Connect G and H by a straight line, for the slope at the lower edge of the side seam.

8. Copy on paper and cut from A to B, C, D, E, and F, leaving \ in.

outside the shoulder and side lines for seams.

9. Cut the cloth from the paper pattern thus made. For this tier it requires

3 yds. of cloth from 26 in. to 30 in. wide, according to the size of the child. The pattern will fit pupils from ten to thirteen or fourteen years of age. When 26 in. material is used, small gores may be placed at the lower end of the side seam to make the required width.

The back of the tier is made shorter than the front, that the shoulder seam may be sewed 1 in. below the top of the shoulder. The front is carried over the shoulder to meet this line, and for this reason is made 1 in. longer.

Baste with 1/4 in. stitches, 1/8 in. spaces, and sew together the seams that are notched alike. Measure the number of inches around the neck of the tier, and make a band from the selvedge way of the cloth 21/2 in. wide and 1/2 in. longer than the size of the neck. Baste the band to the neck (laying the right sides together), then stitch the tier to the band, fold over 1/8 in. of the raw edges on the side and ends; oversew the ends, and hem down the side. Make the buttonholes on the right hem, and sew the buttons on the left hem.