In cutting the dress goods, be careful to have the corresponding pieces for the two sides of the waist correct. If both are cut together, the cloth must be folded so that the right sides lie together. Single width cloth can be cut more economically if not folded. If one piece is cut first, it should be laid either right side on the right side, or wrong side on the wrong side, of the cloth from which the other is to be cut. Show on the blackboard the proper position of the right sleeve to the left sleeve when cut correctly. Be very exact in cutting curves.

After the dress material is cut, the pieces should be laid on the corresponding pieces of the lining, and the two smoothly basted together I in. from the edge, with stitches from 1 in. to 1 1/2 in. long. The seams should then be basted with short basting stitches of 1/8 in., always beginning at the notches made at the waist line.

Fig. 82.   Paper dress made by a pupil.

Fig. 82. - Paper dress made by a pupil.

To prepare a plain round skirt for sewing to the waist or band: -Divide the skirt and waist or band into corresponding halves by cross-stitches of a colored thread, which show readily against the cloth. Turn the top edge until the skirt is the desired length. Gather the skirt on the right side, making the stitches 1/2 in. long and spaces 1/8 in. long for gathering the back breadth; gathering stitches 1/4 in. long and spaces 1/8 in. for the side breadths; for the front breadth even stitches and spaces of 1/8 in.

To sew a skirt to the waist or band: Pin the centres of the waist and skirt firmly together; hold the skirt and gathers toward the sewer, take one gather on each stitch, and sew firmly with strong thread. Sew the gathers of the back breadth into a space 4 1/2 in. long. The gathers of the front breadth sew into a space 9 in. long. The side breadths should be sewed between these measures. If the figure requires more fulness at the sides than this gives, the gathers can be spread a little from the front and back. This description is for a skirt made from four widths of gingham.

Pattern Of One-Half Of Gored Skirt (Fig. 83).

Front.

Front.

Side gore.

Side gore.

Back.

Back.

Fig- 83. - Pattern of a gored skirt. Scale 1/8 " = 1".

This pattern consists of three pieces, viz. front, back, and side gore, which is one-half the skirt. Quantity of material 24 in. wide needed for a skirt, 4 yds.

Half Of Front Breadth

1. Draw on the blackboard an oblong II in. x 36 in., having the shorter lines horizontal and the left vertical a dotted line, to show where the cloth or paper is doubled.

2. From the left upper corner, measure horizontally to the right

2 1/2 " in., 3 1/2 in., 7 3/4 in., and 9 in., marking the points respectively A, B, C, and D.

3. Half-way between A and B draw downward a dotted vertical 3 1/2 in.

long, and mark the lower end E. Connect points A, E, and B, E, by straight lines; this gives the V which is folded over or cut, to fit the skirt to the waist.

4. From the lower right corner, measure up on the right vertical 1/2 in.

and mark the point G. Connect the points D and G by a straight line for a seam. Mark one notch on the centre of this line, to show the edges which must be joined together in sewing.

5. On the line connecting D-G, mark the point F, 6 in. below D, and connect C and F by a straight line for the slope on the hip.

6. Draw a straight line from the lower left corner to G ; this line slopes the lower edge of the front breadth, making it even with the straight edge of the side gore.

Side Gore

1. Draw on the blackboard an oblong 24 in. x 36 in., making the shorter lines horizontal.

2. From the upper left corner, measure horizontally to the right

3 in., 4 1/2 in., and 15 in., marking the points respectively A, B, and C.

3. Half-way between A and B draw downward a dotted vertical 3 1/2 in.

long and mark the lower end D.

4. Connect the points A-D and B-D by straight lines; this gives the V by which the skirt is fitted to the waist in this gore.

5. From the lower right corner, measure up on the right vertical 1 1/2 in.

and mark the point E.Connect E and C by a straight line for the slope of the sidegore. In the centre of this line mark two notches, and one notch in the centre of the left vertical line.

6. From the lower left corner draw a straight line to the point E. This line slopes the lower edge of the side gore, making it even with the straight edge of the back breadth.

Back Breadth

1. Draw on the blackboard an oblong 9 in. x 36 in., the shorter lines horizontal, and the right vertical dotted, to show where the cloth is doubled.

2. Mark two notches in the centre of the left vertical, to correspond with the notches in the side gore.

In putting the breadths together, several points must be carefully observed.

1. Baste together a straight and gored edge according as they are notched,- an edge having one notch to an edge having one notch, an edge having two notches to an edge having two notches.

2. Always hold the gored edge to the person in basting or sewing.

3. In order to keep the gored edges always toward the person in working, two seams on one side of the skirt should be commenced at the top, the top edges being exactly even; the seams opposite must be commenced at the bottom, and the lower edges can be measured and arranged from the side already done.

The even hanging of the skirt depends upon the careful observation of these points.

Cut evenly the lower edge of the skirt. Make all seams of equal length, turn the upper edge until the skirt is the desired length. Sew a bias facing 4 in. wide to the lower edge of the skirt, and gather (as a round skirt) the upper edge of the back breadth and the side gores to the V. Oversew to the band or waist, as a round skirt, being careful to fasten the gathering threads when the oversewing is finished. 4. From the middle of the top of the back breadth cut down 9 in. for a placket. The front breadth and part of the side gores are fitted to the band by basting the V to fit the figure.