This pattern consists of two pieces ; they are called upper and under parts of the sleeve. The upper part is much larger than the under part, that the two seams (the inner seam and the outer seam) may not be easily seen when the sleeve is worn.

Measuring for a sleeve : Begin 2 in. above the shoulder joint, carry the tape measure to the bended elbow, and note the distance from the shoulder joint to this point; continue with the tape measure to the wrist and note the distance from the elbow to the wrist. Measure from the upper end of the first under-arm seam of the dress to the wrist; notice the measure at the bend of the arm. When sewing the sleeve to the garment, the sleeve should be held next the sewer.

Front Or Upper Part Of The Sleeve (Fig. 75).

Sleeve Pattern For Tier 83

Fig. 75.

To draw a diagram for sleeve, when the arm on the outside measures 14 in. from shoulder joint to bended elbow; 10 in. from bended elbow to wrist; 8 in. from upper part of under-arm seam to elbow; 8 in. from elbow to wrist.

1. Draw an oblong II in. x 24 in., the short sides horizontal.

2. From the upper left corner, measure down 5 in. on the left vertical and mark the point A. From the same corner, measure horizontally to the right 6 1/2 in. and mark the point B. Connect A and B by a reversed curve, that curves slightly to the right and then slightly to the left, to give the curve to the top of the sleeve.

3. From the upper right-hand corner, measure down on the right vertical 2 in. and mark the point C. Connect B and C by a line that curves slightly to the right; this completes the top line of the sleeve.

4. From the upper right corner, measure down on the right vertical

13 1/2 in. and mark the elbow point D, 1/2 in. in from the right vertical. Connect C and D by a straight line for the upper part of the back seam.

5. From the lower right corner, measure horizontally to the left 6 in.

and mark the point F. From F measure vertically upward 1 1/2 in. and mark this point E. Connect E and F by a straight line for the back slope of the hem of the lower part of the sleeve. Connect E with D by a line which curves slightly to the right; this finishes the lower part of the back seam.

6. From the lower left corner, measure up on the left vertical 3 in.

and 5 in. and mark the points respectively G and H. Connect G and F by a straight line for the lower edge of the sleeve. Connect H and E by a straight line for the line at which the hem is folded.

7. From D draw to the left a dotted horizontal of 8 in. (less or more according to the width desired at the elbow) and mark the left end X. Connect A, X, and G by a line which curves gradually to the right. This line gives the curve for the inner or front seam of the sleeve. Copy upon paper and cut from A to B, C, D, E, F, G, H, X, and A.

Back Or Under Part Of Sleeve (Fig. 76).

Sleeve Pattern For Tier 84

Fig. 76.

1. Draw on the blackboard an oblong 8 1/2 in. x 22 in., with the shorter sides .horizontal.

2. From the upper left corner, measure horizontally to the right 2 1/4 in.

and 7 in. and mark the points respectively C and X. From X draw downward a dotted vertical 3 1/2 in. and mark the lower end A. Connect C and A by a line which curves downward and which reaches its lowest point quite near A, making a curve on the top of the under part of the sleeve.

3. From the upper left corner, measure down on the left vertical

12 1/2 in. and mark the elbow point D. Connect C and D by a straight line for the upper part of the back seam. 4. From the lower left corner, measure horizontally to the right 4 1/2 in. and mark the point F. From the point F measure vertically upward 1 1/2 in. and mark the point E. Connect E and F by a straight line for the back slope of the hem at the lower part of the sleeve. Connect D and E by a line two-thirds of which is straight, one-third curved. The curve begins 3 in. below D and continues to D for the elbow curve. This finishes the lower part of the back seam.

5. From the lower right corner, measure up on the right vertical 2 1/2 in. and 4 in., marking the points respectively G and H. Connect F and G by a straight line for the lower edge of the sleeve. Connect E and H by a straight line for the line upon which the hem is to be folded.

6. From D draw to the right a dotted horizontal of 5 in. (less or more according to the width desired at the elbow) and mark the right end X. Connect A, X, and G by a line which curves gradually to the left and becomes straight from X to G. This line gives the curve for the inner or front seam of the sleeve. Copy upon paper and cut from C to D, E, F, G, X, and A to C. After a pupil has drawn the sleeve on paper and cut by the lines, she can compare the parts until familiar with all the lines and can see how these two parts differ and how they must be placed to fit the arm. The cloth may next be cut from the paper pattern.

Basting And Making A Sleeve