Fig. 60, B.   Hemstitching.

Fig. 60, B. - Hemstitching.

51. How should the thread be fastened in finishing? Ans. The thread should be run between the stitch and the canvas on the under side, for the length of three stitches, and cut off with the scissors.

52. In what direction should the letters be worked? Ans. In marking, the letters should be made from left to right.

53. How is the place to begin lettering the pocket to be found? Ans. To find the place of the first marking stitch, count the number of stitches necessary for all the initials, the periods, and the spaces between, then 1/2 in. below the hemstitching, count from the middle of the pocket half this number of stitches to the left, and this gives the place for the first stitch of the first initial.

54. How is the pocket sewed to the sampler? Ans. The pocket is hemmed to the sampler.

55. What number thread and what number needle are used for hemming on the pocket? Ans. To hem on the pocket, No. 60 thread and No. 9 needle are used.

56. Where should the button be sewed on? Ans. After the pocket is sewed on, lay the sampler flat on the desk and place a pin through the buttonhole and cloth beneath, 1/8 in. from the top of the buttonhole; this gives the place where the button should be sewed.

57. Should the button be sewed on a single thickness of thin cloth?

Ans. A button should never be sewed on a single thickness of thin cloth, where it has to bear any strain. A small square piece should be hemmed on under the place where the button belongs, to strengthen it. Now the white cloth sampler is finished.*

58. What is this small piece called? Ans. This small piece is called a stay.

Number Of Cotton And Number Of Needle For Sampler Work

Cotton. Needle.

Oversewed seam ............................................

60

10

French seam, run and back-stitched .

60

9

French seam, stitched ....

50

9

Fell. stitched .................................

50

9

Fell, hemmed ............................

60

9

Hems, broad and narrow .

70

10

Patch, hemmed on

70

10

Patch, stitched in

60

9

* The idea of the white cloth sampler originated with Miss Emma F. Ware, Milton, Mass. The one in use, here illustrated, has several alterations and additions.

Cotton.

Needle.

Patch, overcast .....

.........................

70

1O

Patch, oversewed ....

.........................

60

IO

Darning......

.........................

1OO

12

Gathering ......

.........................

50

9

Band, stitched on ... .

.........................

50

9

Band, hemmed down and ends oversewed

..........................

6O

9

Buttonholes, overcast

............................

70

10

Buttonholes, worked ....

............................

50

9

Button sewed on to band

...........................

50

9

Button sewed on for pocket

.......................

40

9

Lonsdale ruffles, hemmed .

..........................

1OO

12

Narrow ruffles, gathered

.......................

50

9

Narrow ruffle, stitched on .

..........................

60

10

Narrow ruffle, overcast

........................

70

10

Tucks run in broad ruffle .

...........................

90

11

Broad ruffle, whipped

........................

40

9

Broad ruffle, oversewed on

.......................

50

9

Flannel, blind (or slip) stitched

........................

60

9

Gusset, oversewed ....

............................

60

10

Gusset, hemmed ....

.......................

70

10

Pocket, hemstitched ....

.........................

60

9

Pocket, buttonhole worked

........................

40

9

Pocket, hemmed on .

.........................

60

9

Stay for button, hemmed on

.............................

70

10

Flannel stitched on to sampler

............................

50

9

Flannel overcast . .

.........................

70

10