The square pincushion is rather more difficult than the other, but even here, the great essential is care, and if the work is followed step by step, as shown in the working directions (Fig. 2), even this will be found to be within the possibilities of the average worker.
A RETICELLA. PINCUSHION.
Start with the middle figure. Pierce a hole in the centre and buttonhole round, with the purl sts on the outside.
Then make a 2nd row of loose buttonhole sts in every 2nd st, after which take 1 bind-i n g st in each of those loose loops to make them firmer and stronger.
The 3rd row consists of a series of triangles, all worked in buttonhole st. Fill the 1st hole with sts, turn, and work back on top of them. Take a 2nd row of buttonhole sts on top, only making this row 2 sts less than the 1st, work back again. Continue until there is only 1 st left. Then take a few overcasting sts down the side of the triangle, and start the next triangle in the 2nd hole.
Fig. 2. WORKING THE CENTRAL FIGURE. HEART-SHAPED FIGURE AND SOLID EMBROIDERY.
Baste round the circle which encloses the central figure. This is also buttonholed round. As the circle is worked, the triangles are connected with the crossing bars, which, as will be seen, are of the thread twisted over and over. As the embroidery is done, the material is carefully cut away on the wrong side.
For the heart-shaped figures, first take small basting sts round, then a row of close buttonhole stitching, and on top of that a row of loose buttonholing. A few sts are then carried across to fill the figure in.
Make the upper and under side of the pincushion cover of the same size, and hemstitch each to the depth of an inch. Then lace with cord.
AN ACORN DESIGN IN DARNED FILET NET.
A DESIGN SHOWING SIMPLE OUTLINES.
Filet brode or darned net, now coming so much to the front, is a most fascinating form of fancy-work, and not so difficult as it may seem to the inexperienced worker. The point to be most particular about is to see that the right thread is used, as this makes a great difference to the work.
The first step is the netted background - this is made in the ordinary way with a mesh, according to size desired. For this part of the work use Barbour's 3-cord L,inen Lace Thread.
The square or strip thus obtained, is then stretched on a wire frame (these frames are to be obtained in any large needlework department).
The design is now carried out in "point de toile" or darning stitch, with a rather blunt needle, and thread (the thread should be a little finer than the mesh). Barbour's Irish Silk Floss Embroidery Thread is suitable for this.
After tying thread to the mesh with the needle, pass alternately over and under a thread of the mesh, according to design; an effort should be made to connect the design as far as possible, thus avoiding open spaces. Continue to fill in the holes with two or three threads, now work over and under these threads crosswise, giving darned effect.
AN EFFECTIVE PATTERN.
The work is more easily accomplished by beginning at the corner of a design - but great care must be taken in counting the number of holes, etc., as a mistake is so easily made. Knots must be avoided; when taking a new thread attach to last with a very small knot which becomes invisible in the darning.
The squares illustrated are most effective for inserting in table-linen, etc. The same design worked in a finer make of mesh and thread make a very elaborate finish to a frock or blouse.
The drawing should be traced upon a large square of linen or oatmeal cloth. (Pencil marks will soil the threads). Fix the material very firmly into an embroidery frame. Cover the whole with fine butter-muslin or white paper. Cut a door and pin back whilst working. This method keeps the work from becoming soiled.
A Handsome Centrepiece in Catalan Embroidery.
An enlarged section appears on another page.
A TEA CLOTH BORDER.
The directions are the same as for the butterfly
Use Coton Perle "Lustrous" D.M.C., No. 8.
Begin with the "mesh" or net-stitch. This is very simple work, merely tiny loops worked evenly back and forth. Work this "mesh" in and out between the drawing, taking care that each side is sewn well within the flower, leaf, and outer edges, otherwise the stitches may break away when the material is cut out underneath.
This Butterfly is a very handsome specimen of Catalan Embroidery.
The stitches are not difficult, but great care is required.
Now commence work upon the rose by making tiny cross or back stitches between each petal. Pad these petals with any kind of soft, white thread. Carefully embroider each portion of the flower and finish off with a narrow buttonhole stitch all around the outside. This will hold flower and mesh firmly together.
In the smaller flowers there is no padding. The centres can be cut out for tiny openwork, or filled in with snow knots. To make the snow knots use double thread and leave tiny, even loops upon the upper surface of material. After the leaves are embroidered fill in the bare spaces with these snow knots or very small cross-stitch. Finish off all outer edges of flowers and leaves with a firm buttonhole stitch.
The trunk and all narrow sprays are merely smooth satin stitches.
When all is finished, remove from frame and work a narrow buttonhole edging all around the outside of the embroidery. Turn over, cut away the material from under the mesh, also from the buttonhole edging.
The insertions illustrated are worked in the same way. The Butterfly.
A square of coarse linen or oatmeal cloth is needed.
The design should first be drawn upon paper. If drawn upon the material great care must be taken, otherwise the pencil marks will soil the threads. Commence by running a single thread around all the drawing. Use Ardern's new "Lustrous" Thread. Work a tight, but narrow, buttonhole stitch around the upper parts of wing and lower parts of body and tail.
A NARROW INSERTION.
Now fix material very tightly in an embroidery frame. Work head and the half-hoops with a firm satin-stitch. Between these hoops and between the buttonhole work of wings sew tiny stitches, drawing the linen threads apart, as in Rhodes Embroidery.
Cut away the unworked material from the upper parts of wings close to the buttonhole work, making 2 holes on both sides of the open-worked parts.
Around each of these holes make from 10 to 14 loop stitches. Don't draw them too tightly, or the work will pucker when washed. Now return to the top of the hole and work upon it a small ring of 3 threads. Into this ring cast on 6 long threads, passing each thread through a small loop at the bottom of hole. At the top of these 6 threads make a small tassel-knot. Take a needleful of very long thread. Sew it firmly into this tassel-knot. Take 2 of the 6 long threads and darn them closely back and forth until nearly at the bottom of the hole. Pass the needle here and there through one of the tiny side loops, fastening each firmly. Continue darning until at the bottom, first around the lower threads and finish with fancy knot. When 2 of the 6 threads have been darned on both sides, return to the 2 long threads in the middle, darn in the same manner, but continue until almost at the bottom of hole, thus forming the point. Finish with fancy knot.
Design composed of Satin Sti tc h and Net Stitch.
This would make a good pattern for a beginner.
Begin the outer edge, and near the head, with a narrow buttonhole stitch, gradually making it much wider towards the bottom. Care must be taken that the sides are even.
AN ENLARGED SECTION OF THE CENTREPIECE.
Cut out material and make 19 small stitches upon the sides of the hole, commencing in the middle. This done, return to top of hole and work 4 threads across for a ring, buttonhole it and cast on 19 long threads. Pass each thread into a loop at the side of hole and continue until each is finished. Return to top and buttonhole very firmly twice across the 19 threads, close to ring. Split these threads into groups of 4, on either side, leaving 3 for the middle. Darn down the 4 threads, in the same manner as in the upper wing, as far as the 1st loop at the sides. Finish off each with fancy knots. The 3 long middle threads must be darned until nearly at the bottom of hole and finish with knots.
THIS INSERTION IS WORKED IN THE SAME MANNER AS THE CENTREPIECE.
Around the body work a very narrow and firm buttonhole stitch, and fill in with Rhodes Embroidery (or Punched Work). The tail is filled in with woven wheels.
The tea-cloth corner is worked in the same manner as the butterfly.