There is a great demand for Bulgarian embroidery at present, for ornamenting collars, trimming coats and bodices, as well as for trimming-hats. The Bulgarian women are famous for the embroideries with which they adorn their clothes and household napery. This embroidery is very easily made on coarse linen of an open texture, such as is at present used to form collars to wear with the coat 01 blouse.
Any design may be copied and the outline worked with stem stitch, as this must resemble a cord as closely as possible, then the centre may be filled in with any stitch with which you are familiar, such as flat stitch, stroke stitch, cross stitch, fishbone stitch, herring-boning, etc. The outline only may be done, according to the character of the design, or a portion of it filled, orentirely worked over.
A DIAMOND INSERTION IN THREE SHADES.
There is generally a fancy stitch used as an edging for insertion strips. In the samples shown, the first is worked in the fashionable shades of ecru and white on coarse linen, following the lines in the material the design is outlined with stem stitch over four threads, there are three rows in each line, the two outside being in ecru and the centre white.
A VANDYKE PATTERN IN ECRU AND WHITE.
The edging is simply a straight stitch over two threads, leaving two between the stitches, then a row of square back stitch worked thus:- Make a horizontal back stitch over two threads, cross over two threads above these two and make another back stitch, this gives two sides of a square, make a back stitch over next two threads after the first, then another after the second and so on, working these two rows to the end, then return and work the other two sides of the square in the same way.
The second sample is also worked in stem stitch in three shades, green, tan, and white. The tan color is worked first in a simple design of diamond shape, inside this there are three rows of white, all worked in the same way, then one of green, leaving the centre unworked. Outside the tan row there is one of white, then another of green. In the half-diamond space there is a vacant row after the green followed by a small green angle. A row of square back stitch finishes each edge.
This embroidery will be very fashionable for trimming linen costumes the coming summer, and as the machine-made kind cannot at all equal that made by hand, there is an opportunity for everyone to make her own trimming in this lovely fancy-work. The chief beauty of it lies in an artistic blending of color, vivid tones of purple, green and crimson, are blended with blue very effectually by separating the shades with a row of black. Ecru and all yellow shades are combined with white for the quieter kinds, and for evening wear, gold and silver threads are much used, combined with other colors which must match or contrast with the dress worn.
For trimming the collar and cuffs of a tweed costume or other material in which the threads cannot be counted, the design must be transferred to the material. It is then an easy matter to work the outline with regular stitches and fill in the design as already explained. For this purpose too, the outline may be made of fine braid and then the colored thread fills in the rest of the design.
Vegetable silk or any of the mercerised cottons may be used, as well as fine woollen thread and ordinary embroidery silk.
For washing materials Ardern's "Star Sylko" is very suitable.
Ribands for trimming hats are easily worked with the aid of a good transfer design. Choose a detached spray, and keep the remainder of the riband covered while working each, in order to avoid soiling the work.
A Linen Cover for a tea cosy ornamented with Bohemian Lace.
The herring-bone stitches in the lace combine well with drawn work.
Limerick "tambour" lace is suitable for collars, handkerchief borders and jabots, as well as for trimming evening dresses, etc. This lace is very easy to make,as it is composed almost entirely of the ordinary crochet chain stitch worked through the meshes of the net. Apattern of the design is essential,and this may be drawn on a sheet of white paper with pen and ink, or any transfer design can be employed, provided the motif contains continuous lines. The best Brussels net, a small tambour frame, a fine crochet-hook, Manlove's No. 60 and No. 100 Irish Lace Thread, and an ordinary fine sewing-needle are the materials required. The net is tacked carefully over the design, then with the finer thread the design is traced by running the stitches in and out through the meshes over the lines in the design, going over the outline only. Trace a line for the edges at both sides. Remove the net from the design by cutting the threads on the back of the paper, pick out the loose bits of thread, and arrange the net in the tambour frame.
With a crochet-hook make a loop on the end of No. 60 thread as if for a crochet chain, withdraw the hook and hold this loop with the fingers of the left hand under the frame up to the point in the design where you wish to begin, holding the tambour between the thumb and forefinger. With the crochet-hook in the right hand, insert it down through the mesh over the loop and draw the loop up to the right side, insert the hook through the next mesh (over the lines throughout) and draw up a loop of the thread, pull this loop through the loop on the hook, insert the hook through the next mesh and draw up a loop, then pull this through the loop on the needle, and so on.
This is the entire stitch, and only requires a very little practice to make one proficient. Having gone over the outlines, the centres of the leaves and petals are filled in with a couple of rows, using the finer thread, or the inside may be filled with fancy lace stitches. Scrolls are usually made solid, that is, close rows of the ch stitch are worked into them. The edges are then worked with a row, having a second row worked right through the centre of the first, the net is next cut away from the lower edge, and the lace placed between the folds of a piece of damped calico, press with a hot iron until the calico be dry, remove the calico, and finish off on the back of the lace itself, when it is completed.
A very Handsome Handker-hief Border which is not difficult to make.
This Limerick Tambour Lace is often finished with a row of pearl edging sold for the purpose. This is top-sewn to the edge, using the finer thread.
To make the edges of the lace more durable it is usual to work a double row of ch around the edges, then cut away the net from outside the design, allowing a margin of two rows of meshes outside the outer line; these rows are twirled under when sewing on the edging. For the handkerchief border, the inner edge is top-sewn to the lawn centre, allowing the two rows of margin, and twirling these when sewing on the wrong side to the hemstitching.
A SIMPLE LACE PATTERN.