Wherever the embroidery suggests the craft of the loom, the fringe is absolutely the most stylish finish, for the very character of the stitchery not only seems incomplete without it, but it positively calls for it as a softening, graceful accompaniment. Conse-quently, wherever any kind of tapestry, any of the Indian embroideries, or such richly-coloured, tapestry-looking needlecrafts are of decorative effect, that effect is added by a nicely-patterned and carefully-worked fringe.

No. 1. A Twined Fringe

Of the three fringes illustrated No. 1 is made as follows:-

Measure out equal spaces and cut strands for fringe as directed. This particular fringe takes up a good deal of wool on account of so many twined rows, the original length of strands being 28 inches for a 7-inch fringe.

Double thread through material and knot as directed.

1st Row. - This is twined; the 2nd movement of the twining is repeated 5 times and then the knot is tied.

2nd Row. - Divide the tassels and join the 2 neighbouring halves with a knot.

3rd Row. -As 1st row. 4th Row. - As 2nd row. 5tJi Row. - As 1st and 3rd rows. 6th Row. - As 2nd and 4th rows

No. 2. A Vandyke Fringe

For this Vandyke fringe measure the article to be finished off with fringe and subdivide into spaces of 3 to 4 inches. In each space measure off and mark 1 ascending row and 1 descending one, 4 deep as illustration. If the material is unyielding, the holes should be pierced before threading the fringe through. Then thread as directed.

1st Row. - Knot the fringe, including one-half of the lowest tassel, as only half of this belongs to each motif. The outer half of the initial tassel is thus left free. An illustration shows this in the making. In each of the following rows the outer half of each end-tassel is likewise left free until in the 5th row only one complete tassel with half a tassel on each side is left. These are joined into 1 by a knot.

It is the better plan to do all the "Vandykes" first. The half tassel left free in the last "Vandyke" will, of course, be part of the next motif. When all the Vandykes are completed thread a darning- or crewel-needle with the same kind of wool (or silk) as you are using for the fringe. Gather up the 4 half-tassels on each side into 1 tassel and wind the wool in your needle through that. Secure this "imitation-knot" with a couple of stitches at the back as invisibly as it can possibly be done. All this unknotted work will be found to be considerably longer, and the tassels formed by gathering it up should be trimmed separately and comparatively long. Then trim the short tassels on the Vandyke movements.

No. 3. An Easily-Made Fringe

For this quickly-made and effective pattern measure out 2-inch spaces. Measure and mark an independent and detached "movement" in each space as illustrated. This fringe looks best when worked with 4 strands to every stitch. Thread through from the right side all the 5 holes of each "movement," then gather up all the loops in your left hand and all the ends (on the wrong side of the material) in your right hand. Thread all the ends through the united group of loops. An illustration shows this fringe in the making, the silk being tied round the united group of loops to be held by the left hand. Pinning to a cushion or securing by weights laid on is, of course, necessary. Arrange nicely the pattern thus formed. Make a knot.

The 2nd and '3rd rows are knotted ones.

A STAR D'OILT IN HUNGARIAN EMBROIDERY.

A STAR D'OILT IN HUNGARIAN EMBROIDERY.

Directions for this work appear on page 1.

No kind of lace combines the qualities of elegance, durability and general usefulness so much as filet lace. It is most decorative,whether on household linen, such as tea-cloths, bedspreads, tray-cloths, and a quantity of otherthings, or as trimmings on muslin or Shantung silk dresses. Cushion-covers and curtains are made both attractive and valuable when composed of netting inlets in conjunction with Broderie Anglaise, Italian or French embroidery, and various kinds of pillow lace. Filet lace lasts a life-time - and more - if carefully washed. And, lastly, it is a most fascinating handicraft.

We have become accustomed to consider the art of making filet lace as having originated in the Italian convents, But though the nuns made netting into a high art of lace-making, and as such handed it down to us, they themselves most probably got the idea from the Orient, where embroidery on netted silk-foundation with gold and silver thread, and all the rich colours of the Orient, was one of the common forms of applied art in the early centuries. Where the idea first sprang from to make the common fishing-net mesh out of linen and silk, and to employ it for ornamental purposes, is not known. Still less do we know how, when or where the fishing nets themselves were invented.

Hands in position ready for the First Loop.

Hands in position ready for the First Loop.

Materials Required

The implements reqrired for making filet lace are a netting-needle, generally made of steel, a flat ivory mesh, and a piece of twine about l 1/2 yards long. The material is linen-thread. (Barbour's 3-Cord Linen I,ace Thread.) If a heavy cushion is available, the twine will not be required. A coarse piece of thread half a yard or less and a pin will do for make ing the foundation-loop on which to commence the work and hold the netting steady whilst working. If no heavy cushion is at hand, then make a loop of your twine, put your left foot through it and let the heel prevent it from slipping off.

Bobbin passed behind Mesh through Loop.

Bobbin passed behind Mesh through Loop.

Ready to draw up the Knot.

Ready to draw up the Knot.

The two top designs show respectively a Star and a piece of Square Netting. Just below is a sample of Oblique Netting, and the bottom design is an oblong piece in the making.

The beginner should begin on some coarser material such as "Bright-eye" or "Peri-lusta," and a mesh at least a quarter of an inch wide. The needle is forked at both ends and has generally an "eye" at the one end. Thread the needle and tie a knot to secure, then run the thread along both sides of the needle and through the forks until twice the thickness of the flat ivory-mesh you mean to use. (The beginner should use a flat mesh, as the round ones are not so easy to keep in place.) The thread should now be cut from the ball and tied securely to the foundation-loop.