Commence at the right side of a line and work a row evenly and closely to the opposite side, make a st into the outlining cord and bring the thread back across the top of the sts to the point where you began the row, make a st into the outlining cord here, then work back over this thread into the sts. of the 1st row, taking care to go into every st, and where there is a diamond, stripe, or other figure in little openwork holes, you pass over 2 or 3 sts by stretching the thread across the thread already there and even with it, then when coming back work the same number of sts over the 2 threads as were missed in the previous row.
At the point where you require the picot to be you insert a pin through the linen, pass the thread once around this pin to form a tiny upstanding loop, make a st on the edge, then put a couple of sts around the stem of the loop and continue along the edge to the next picot, and so on.
The little loops with picots are made by turning the thread back and forming a loop by making a tight st into the edge about 10 sts to the right: form another loop over this and fasten to the left, then bring the thread back to the right again and fasten into the 1st st, thus getting 3 threads to work over.
The bars that connect the different portions of- the design are all worked over a single thread, and there are single or double loops with picots worked on the centre of all the longer bars.
The top edge is worked before the filling of the bars, of course; the 2 horizontal lines are outlined with the thick thread, then buttonholed and the space between filled with diagonal bars. In the lower edge the horizontal line is also of the coarse thread, and the loops and picots are formed while working the buttonholing over the line.
The lace is removed from the design by cutting the threads on the back of the design.
When the stitchery is finished, place the lace between folds of linen wrung out from hot water, press with a hot iron until the linen is nearly dry, only on the wrong side of the lace. Remove the linen from under the lace, and keep pressing over the upper piece until the lace is quite dry. The front of the lace should show out in high relief and the lace be quite crisp and fresh.
The band round the central figure has the buttonholes spaced.
This work is made with a rather coarse make of linen thread, which gives a heavy, rich effect, and is most suitable for inserting in bed, table linen, etc.
The design should first be traced on moleskine or architect's drawing paper. The principal lines of tracing are now outlined with two strands of the thread, which are couched down at intervals with needle and ordinary sewing cotton. This serves as foundation for the work and is most important.
Buttonhole stitch is chiefly employed for this work. The "brides or barrettes" are made by stretching the thread across space three times, and buttonholing.
The thicker Darts of the workr principally the small triangles, are worked as follows:- 1 row of buttonhole stitch over outline thread, throw thread across from right to left, pass needle under 1st buttonhole stitch, work as before with buttonhole stitch into each stitch of former row and over thread.
A Star Pattern. The triangles are composed of spaced buttonholes.
The five central bars crossing in the centre are in Binding Stitch.
Another Star Design, with the alternate points alike only.
Notice the pretty finishing of the corners in this work.
For the parts. where a lighter effect is required the 1st row of buttonhole stitches instead of being close together are slightly spaced; in the following row a stitch is placed between each, and in the next rows alternately.
In some parts a corded effect is obtained by simply pressing thread closely under outline thread and drawing up tightly.
When the work is completed, the couching stitches are done and the square taken off the paper and firmly pressed on the wrong side with a hot iron.