This section is from the book "School Needlework. A Course of Study in Sewing designed for use in Schools", by Olive C. Hapgood. Also available from Amazon: School Needlework: A Course Of Study In Sewing Designed For Use In Schools.
1. Crease the garment, represented by the large piece of flannel, through, and across the centre (Fig. 74).
2. Mark the centre by inserting a pin; and one inch from the middle of each crease, insert a pin.
3. Crease a square, by a thread, on a line with the pins.
5. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch.
6. Place the garment on the desk, with the wrong side upwards.
Fig. 78. - Showing the right side of the patch; the straight lines represent the edges of the hole.
7. Place the right side of the patch upon the garment, with the nap of the two pieces running the same way.
8. Match the creases, and put in pins.
9. With each edge of the patch even with a thread of the garment, baste one-fourth of an inch from the edge.
10. Holding the garment towards you, baste one-fourth of an inch from the edge of the hole.
11. Draw the needle through the garment from underneath, one-eighth of an inch from the raw edge.
12. Catch-stitch (see page 117) around the square, taking the inner stitches through the patch, close to the edge of the garment; and the outside stitches one-eighth of an inch from the edge, and through both thicknesses of cloth (Fig. 78).
Fig. 79. - Showing the wrong side of the patch; the straight lines represent the edges of the patch.
13. Turning the wrong side towards you, catch-stitch in the same manner, the edges of the patch to the garment (Fig- 79).
14. Take out the basting threads, and press on the wrong side.
In practical mending, judgment and consideration are necessary, and the material should be treated as common sense suggests; the object is to replace the torn or worn part with as little display as possible.
A patch can be put on in various ways: as, hemming on the right side and overcasting the raw edges together on the wrong side; it can also be put on by stitching. ' A patch can be overhanded on the wrong side, so that the stitches may show less, but the corners are not easily turned. Catch-stitching should be used, when the material does not easily ravel, as on flannel. Thin, woollen materials can be hemmed. When a material is worn, it is better to hem the patch on, for, if it is overhanded, the strain comes on one thread at each side.
Stripes, checks and figures should always match, as otherwise they attract attention. Care must be taken to have the warp and the woof of the patch run the same way as those of the garment, the straightest threads of the cloth generally represent the warp. The nap must also run in the same direction, which can be ascertained by passing the hand lightly over it. A patch can be either square or oblong, according to the shape of the damaged part, but should be large enough to cover the worn place. Fine thread or silk, matching the material, should be used; silk should be chosen a shade darker than the material, as it will work lighter.
What is a patch? What is its use? In hemming on a patch, on which side of the garment should the patch be placed? On which side, in overhanding on a patch? How should the wrong side of an overhanded patch be finished? What stitch is used in patching flannel? Which side of the garment is the patch placed upon? What is the object of patching? What care should be taken concerning the warp and the woof?