This section is from the book "School Needlework. A Course of Study in Sewing designed for use in Schools", by Olive C. Hapgood. Also available from Amazon: School Needlework: A Course Of Study In Sewing Designed For Use In Schools.
1.. Make a paper pattern the desired size, having the gusset in the proportions of Fig. 54.
Fig. 54. - Showing the shape of a gusset and facing combined.
3. Cut the cloth by the pattern, and then cut in one-fourth of an inch to a (Fig. 54).
4. Make a narrow fold on the inner edges of the facing, and on the sides of the gusset make a fold turned to a point at a.
5. Fold the edges of the opening in the garment.
6. With the wrong sides together, overhand the gusset, and then the inner edges of the facing, to the opening in the garment.
7. Hem the opposite edges.
What is a gusset? What is its use? How should the hem in the opening be made? In setting-in a gusset, how is the point brought to the opening? What kind of stitches are then taken? What kind of stitches are used after folding the gusset?