This section is from the book "School Needlework. A Course of Study in Sewing designed for use in Schools", by Olive C. Hapgood. Also available from Amazon: School Needlework: A Course Of Study In Sewing Designed For Use In Schools.
1. Crease the garment, represented by the large piece of cloth, through, and across the centre (Fig. 74).
2. Mark the centre by a pin-hole, and half-an-inch from the centre on each crease, make a pin-hole.
3. Crease a square on a line with the holes, and by a thread (Fig. 74, a, b, c, and d).
4. Cut out the square on the creasing, being careful about the corners.
5. Cut diagonally one-fourth of an inch at each corner (Fig. 74, I, 2,3, and 4).
6. Fold and crease each edge of the hole, by a thread, and baste.
7. Cut off each corner of the patch one-fourth of an inch deep.
Fig. 74. - Showing the large piece of cloth with the dotted lines representing where it is creased, and the plain lines where it should be cut.
8. Holding the right side of the patch towards you, fold towards you, and crease, by a thread, one-fourth of an inch deep, on all four sides.
9. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch.
10. Place the garment on the desk, with the wrong side upwards.
11. Place the folded edges of the patch upon the garment, with the warp of the two pieces parallel.
12. Match the creases, and put in pins.
Fig. 75. - Showing the right side of a figured-calico patch, hemmed.
14. Turn the other side towards you, and pin the edges of the hole down at each corner.
15. Baste, keeping each edge on a thread of the patch.
16. Hem the garment to the patch, being careful to firmly sew the corners, keeping them at right angles.
17. On the other side, hem the patch to the garment, allowing the stitches to appear as little as possible on the right side.
Fig. 76. - Showing the right side of a figured-calico patch, overhanded.
18. Take out the basting threads, and press on the wrong side.