This section is from the book "School Needlework. A Course of Study in Sewing designed for use in Schools", by Olive C. Hapgood. Also available from Amazon: School Needlework: A Course Of Study In Sewing Designed For Use In Schools.
Make a narrow hem at the sides. At the middle of the lower edge cut in seven or eight inches, hem the opening, and set-in a gusset.
At the right-hand lower edge hem-stitch an inch hem; above make two tucks one-fourth of an inch deep, the first tuck sewed with a running stitch, the second tuck with a running and a backstitch; then make a narrow straightway fell. Sew a whipped, cambric ruffle, trimmed with Hamburg edging, to the lower edge of the hem.
Tear off one inch from the left-hand lower edge, and face on a cambric ruffle, having a lace edge; hemstitch the facing. Above make two tucks one-fourth of an inch deep, the first tuck sewed by stitching, the second tuck by half-backstitching; then make a narrow French seam. Fasten the opening with a hook and eye, placed at the middle of the edges of the hems; back of the eye place a loop for a fastening.
Fig. 115. - Button-hole worked with the left hand.
Fig. 116. - Sampler.
Above the fell and French seam darn two straightway-tears, one with vertical, and one with slanting stitches; also a bias-tear and a corner-tear. Above the darns sew a patch by hemming, and one by overhanding, overcasting the edges of the latter. Chain-stitch a vine on the lower inch hem, and outline a similar vine on the opposite side. Decorate the vines with embroidery knots.
At the middle of the upper edge make a placket four inches deep. On one of the edges put on a binding by setting-in or by overhanding, making a row of double gathering. Plait the opposite side, and put on a binding by stitching and hemming. Fasten the placket with a four-holed button and a button-hole. Make an eyelet-hole at one of the outer ends of the bindings, and sew a boot-button at the opposite end. Above the four-holed button a loop of tape may be sewed.
A flannel patch, with the edges blanket-stitched, and samples of stockinet darning may be tacked on to the sampler. The name may be worked from the alphabets on a piece of scrim, the edges finished by feather-stitching, and then tacked to the sampler.