Amount of material called for in pattern.
9 pearl buttons.
Thread No. 70.
While many styles of garments come and go, particularly in women's wear, yet the shirt remains as a standard piece of apparel for men and boys. The style of collar and cuffs may vary from time to time, but the general principles of the garment are so nearly unchanged that a standard pattern can be adapted easily to the kind of shirt desired.
Percale is the most common material for shirts, it stands wear, holds its color well, and launders beautifully.
In undertaking to make a shirt a commercial pattern should be used.
Handicraft Bulletin, Ex. Division Kansas State Agricultural College. Household Sewing, Bertha Banner.
No. 1. This shirt is made very similar to the one shown in this lesson; its particular features are the soft cuffs and collar. Instead of being finished with a band at the bottom, it is allowed to extend below the waist line several inches and is curved off toward the underarm seam. It should be made from a commercial pattern. The guide chart and directions which accompany such a pattern should be studied carefully.
No. 2. This shirt is made like No. 1, except that it is finished with a collar band at the top instead of a collar. The open cuffs show the placket opening which is necessary in all shirts of this character. This opening is finished with a bound placket. Usually a strip with a pointed end is sewed along the upper edge of this placket for trimming. A commercial pattern should be used in making this shirt.
Shrink the material.
You are to use a commercial pattern to make this shirt. In selecting the pattern choose one in which the lower part of the waist is fitted into a band. The tape sometimes used to gather the fullness in at the waist line does not make as neat a finish as the band. Carefully study the guide chart and the directions accompanying your pattern. Cut out the shirt accordingly.
Finish the seams under the arms and on the sleeves with felled or lapped seams (Chap. II, Par. 138-139). The shoulders may be finished in the same way, but they will look very neat finished with a lengthwise strip 1" wide. To put on the strip, baste the seams as usual and place a lengthwise strip 3/4" wide over the seam on the right side, letting the center of the strip lie on the basted seam. Turn in the raw edges, baste in place. Trim off the extra material under the strip; baste a strip the same width exactly opposite this on the wrong side. Stitch the strip on the right side along the edges, sewing in the strip on the wrong side at the same time. .
To finish the front edge of the shirt, hem, or face the right-hand edge with a hem, or facing, 3/4" wide. Finish the left-hand edge by turning the raw edges toward the right side and stitching a 1 1/4" strip over it; place the stitching about 1/4" from each edge. Place four buttonholes cut lengthwise of the material in the center of this strip. Place buttons on the right side to correspond with the buttonholes.
The standing collar on a boy's shirt is made of two parts; one part forms a band which fits around the neck and is made lengthwise of the material; the other part which turns back over the bands toward the right side is frequently cut crosswise of the goods, especially if the material is striped. The collar should be made with a double interlining of the goods itself, or some heavy white material like Indian head. If your pattern calls for a two-piece collar, make the turn-over part complete, stitching it around the edge on the outside; then placing the centers of each part together, lay the raw edge of the turn-over part between the raw edges of the top part of the band and stitch them together, continuing the stitching around the ends of the band.
To sew on the collar, stitch the under side of the band and the interlining to the neck of the shirt turning the seam out toward the right side. Turn in the raw edge of the outside of the band to cover this stitching, baste and stitch in place (it is advisable to pin the collar on the neck of the shirt and baste from the center back toward the front.) Fasten the band together at the ends with a button and buttonhole, placing the buttonhole on the left side. Near the bottom of the front ends of the turn-over part, work two buttonholes opposite each other, crosswise of the material (to hold the collar link).
Join the sleeves with felled seams. Finish the opening with a bound placket (Chap. II, Par. 161); place a few gathers in the back of the sleeve (on the under side). The cuffs should be interlined the same as the collar and may be sewed to the sleeves in the same way that you sewed the collar band to the neck of the shirt; if the cuffs are to lap, sew them around to the edge of the extension side of the placket.
If the cuffs are to be held together with cuff links, turn under the extension of the placket and sew it into the cuff with the bottom of the sleeve.
If a lapped cuff is used, place a buttonhole in the upper side, with a button to correspond, on the lower side. If cuffs are to be held together with cuff links, work a buttonhole in each end of the center of the cuff, making the buttonholes exactly opposite each other.
NOTE: It may be necessary to trim off some of the material at the curves of the armholes to make the sleeves fit and hang properly. Sew the sleeves into the shirt with lapped seams. Make tiny cross-wise cuts in the under turnings around the curves to make the seam lie smoothly.
Finish the bottom of the shirt with a facing cut lengthwise of the material 1" wide (turn the facing toward the right side of the shirt to give it the appearance of a band). Work a buttonhole in one end; sew a button on the other end to correspond.